•:,. : •..:•::: ;: ....v.-.v....... :-.- :
UCSB LIBRARY
UNCENSORED LETTERS FROM THE DARDANELLES
SOLDIERS' TALES OF THE GREAT WAR
Each Volume cr. 8vo, cloth, 35. 6d. net.
I. WITH MY REGIMENT. By " PLA- TOON COMMANDER."
II. DIXMUDE. The Epic of the French Marines. Oct. - Nov., 1914. By CHARLES LE GOFFIC. Illustrated
III. IN THE FIELD (1914-15). The
Impressions of an Officer of Light Cavalry.
IV. UNCENSORED LETTERS FROM
THE DARDANELLES. Notes of a French Army Doctor. Illustrated
V. PRISONER OF WAR. By ANDR£ WARNOD. Illustrated
VI. "CONTEMPTIBLE." By "CASU- ALTY."
VII. ON THE ANZAC TRAIL. By " ANZAC."
LONDON: WILLIAM HEINEMANN 21 BEDFORD STREET, W.C.
THE DOCTOR AT THE DOOR OF HIS TENT ON THE CUFF AT SEDD-EL-BAHR.
VCENSORED
LETTERS : ROM THE
DARDANELLES
JS ENGLIfc
BE RXPED1T1ONNAIRE DO
M HEINEMANN
UNCENSORED
LETTERS FROM THE
DARDANELLES
WRITTEN TO HIS ENGLISH WIFE BY A FRENCH MEDICAL OFFICER OF LE CORPS EXPEDITIONNAIRE D ORIENT
LONDON
WILLIAM HEINEMANN
London: William Hnnemann, 1916.
INTRODUCTORY NOTE
IF the time is distant when an accurate account can be written of the tragic campaign on the Gallipoli peninsula or a just estimate made of its influence on the course of the great war, only in the present can be recorded the freshly remembered experiences of the individual soldier, only now can be chronicled what is for many of us more fascinating than the balanced scroll of history — the influence of mighty events and emotions on character.
As a contribution to the study of men under unheard-of hardships and disappointments I have translated these letters. They abound in tributes to the valour and tenacity of the French soldier and his English ally; but they are chiefly valuable as a mirror of the soul of a man going through the great ordeal of war.
The two greatest passions of men, love and war, are at this time mingled in the breasts of thousands of our soldiers. How can they be separated if a true picture is to be given ? My husband is only typical of all men fighting for us, and undergoing the same hardships and the same sensations; and I am glad of this opportunity which may rouse to a still higher degree all our admira- tion for them.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
FAOB
I. BlZERTA AND TUNIS ..... I
II. THE ISLES OF GREECE • . . 10
III. RAMLEH AND LEMNOS . . . .18
IV. THE ALEXANDRIAN DIARY ... 36 V. THE LANDING AT KOUM KALEH . . 45
(FROM THE SHIP)
VI. THE LANDING AT KOUM KALEH (ON SHORE) 58
VII. SEDD-BL-BAHR ...... 73
VIII. SIEGE WARFARE 116
IX. IN THE TRENCHES AND AT TENEDOS . . 147
X. SALONIKA AND SERBIA . . . .184
XI. RETREAT AND RETURN .... 238
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
The doctor at the door of his tent on the cliff at Sedd-el-Bahr
Frontispiece
At Ramleh Camp, near Alexandria 24
Zouaves digging in foreground at Ramleh 24
A march on the road to Aboukir ...... 25
The review of the Corps Expe"ditionnaire d'Orient by General
d'Amade. 25
The Jeanne <TArc from the Savoie . .•«•... 48
The Askold, and in front a transport of troops to be landed at
Koum Kaleh 48
From the Savoie. The artillery is disembarked and towed to
Koum Kaleh . . . . . «... 49 On the Savoie. A gun going to fire on Koum Kaleh . 49
Map of the Dardanelles . . . . . -5*
The French auxiliary cruiser Savoif, before Koum Kaleh . . 72 Wounded being hoisted on board the Savoie . ... 72 The camp of the French regiments at Sedd-el-Bahr ... 73 A view of the River Clyde and the camp taken from the west
platform of Sedd-el-Bahr Castle 80
The ruins of Sedd-el-Bahr and the Castle of Europe ... 80 British troops resting. Australian neighbours to the French
troops near Sedd-el-Bahr . . . . . . .81
Life has begun again around the newly-made graves . . .81 A canvas-covered trench at Sedd-el-Bahr . • . • . .96 A corner of the battlefield after the landing at Sedd-el-Bahr.
Taken May 3, 1915 • . .*«••*• • .96 A review during the Dardanelles campaign. General d'Amade
bestows decorations for bravery at Sedd-el-Bahr ... 97 A dressing station, with Korka, the doctor's Senegalese servant . 112 In the French camp near Sedd-el-Bahr. Colonel Nogues, wounded
in the arm during the Koum Kaleh expedition . . . nz Life-giving sleep after exhausting fighting . . . * • "3
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
A princely dug-out which the doctor occupied for a week . .113 French soldiers in their Colonial helmets carrying shells . .128 A much-needed shave during the first day's rest on the Gallipoli
Peninsula ......... 128
French mobile kitchens (" cuisines roulantes ") . . . .129
Cooks at work above Morto Bay . . . . . .129
A review by General Gouraud of the French troops in Gallipoli . 136 Munition cases protected by a high wall at Sedd-el-Bahr. The
doctor holds his two horses . . . . . .136
A shell bursting in the Morto Bay Plain, seen from the monastery. 137 A French regiment in reserve on the north of Morto Bay . . 144 Debris after the battle near the Vermesch Fountain . . . 144 Drinking water brought by pipes from inspected springs . .145 A little French boy who took part in the operations in Gallipoli for
some weeks ......... 145
French troops in dug-outs at Gallipoli . . . . .145
The Dardanelles Straits from near Eski Hissarlik . . .160 A view of Eski Hissarlik . . . . . . . .160
An old house at Tenedos ........ 161
The Castle of Tenedos ........ 161
The port of Tenedos ........ 161
General Bailloud in consultation with his staff. A Turkish sap has
just been discovered under the French lines . . . .176 Winged torpedoes from the French " crapouillard " — a trench
mortar .......... 176
The Eleonte necropolis. Enormous urns containing two corpses . 177 A magnificent stone-slabbed tomb in the Eleonte necropolis . 177 Map of Salonika and the Valley of the Vardar .... 184
A shell proof dressing station at Sedd-el-Bahr .... 200
Hygienic work being carried out by the Service de Sant£ at
Gallipoli .......... 200
Valley of the Vardar. The railway to the north of Strumnitza
Station .......... 201
The Vardar, near Gradec, looking towards the north . . .201 The central and only street at Strumnitza Station . . . 208 A Serbian cemetery near Strumnitza Station. Two hundred
wounded Serbians were butchered by the Bulgars one night. 208 The doctor's room at Strumnitza Station ..... 209 Putting down a casualty at No. 4 dressing station at Strumnitza. 209
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
MM The English who replaced the French between Rabrovo and
Doiran ....... ... 216
English artillery on Lake Doiran •• • , • • .217 A motor machine gun which was disembarked on the 2nd Novem- ber at Strumnitza, and took part in the fight against the Bulgars on the 3rd . . . . . • • 224
The retreat. French and Serbian soldiers guarding the Sag on the
Valandovo-Katorli road . • • . . . . 224
Preparations for throwing a bridge over the Vardar at Strumnitza 225 Bulgarian prisoners at the headquarters of the 1 56th Division . 225 French soldiers camping in the mud at Modiano Farm . . 256 A convoy of supplies for Topsin stuck in the mud . . . 256 Birama and the doctor's horses in a stream near Bunardza . . 257 A stone bridge with sarcophagus on the Jenidsa-Vardar Road . 257 Valandovo during the battle of Nov. 3. Country carts assembled
in the court of the mosque to evacuate the wounded . 232
A Macedonian soldier forming part of a Greek detachment at
Strumnitza Station . • • . . • • . .233 A Serbian sentinel near Strumnitza . ,. . • . . 233 Ghevgeli in flames during the retreat. . . . . . 240
Children pulling out half-burnt logs when the town was set on
fire . . . . . •«•... 240
French soldiers in the village of Pirovo . . * . . 241 Doctor Subin dressing wounded . . . . . .241
French soldiers in their bullet proof helmets at a review . . 272 Review of troops at Bunardza, near Topsin, to distribute medals and
crosses on Christmas Eve ....... 272
The fountain of Alakilise (the birthplace of Alexander the Great). 273
UNCENSORED LETTERS FROM THE DARDANELLES
CHAPTER I
BIZERTA AND TUNIS
S.S. "LORRAINE," BIZERTA, 4.30 P.M.
March 5. DEAREST WIFE,
We had a magnificent crossing, without a ripple on the sea. I have a splendid cabin de luxe, bathroom, table in the middle. We take our meals with the captain of the boat. I found on board my cousin Th£ophile, naval lieu- tenant, who is serving on the Lorraine. His wife is at Toulon. She will come to see you. Theois Bona's brother.
It is said that, after eight days at Bizerta, where the final concentration is to be made, we shall disembark at Gallipoli
The Publisher's thanks are due to the Editor of the Times for permission to reproduce the " Map of the Dardanelles, " page 52, and to the Editor of the Standard for " Map of Salonika and the Valley of the Vardar," facing page 184.
Go to Nice if you have to finish your convalescence in the South. Quick with your news! I will write you to-morrow. Your JOB.
UNCENSORED LETTERS FROM THE DARDANELLES
CHAPTER I
BIZERTA AND TUNIS
S.S. "LORRAINE," BIZERTA, 4.30 P.M.
March 5. DEAREST WIFE,
We had a magnificent crossing, without a ripple on the sea. I have a splendid cabin de luxe, bathroom, table in the middle. We take our meals with the captain of the boat. I found on board my cousin Theophile, naval lieu- tenant, who is serving on the Lorraine. His wife is at Toulon. She will come to see you. Theois Bona's brother.
It is said that, after eight days at Bizerta, where the final concentration is to be made, we shall disembark at Gallipoli or in some part of the Dardanelles peninsula. The spirits of all are excellent.
I hope we shall soon see each other again, dear little wife. I tried to appear gay on leaving so as not to pain you. . . . My heart was so full ! Forgive me, darling, for sometimes having made you weep. Still I love you so much, the only dear little treasure that I have in all the world.
Go to Nice if you have to finish your convalescence in the South. Quick with your news ! I will write you to-morrow. Your JOE.
2 UNCENSORED LETTERS
March 6-7,
Sunday. DEAREST WIFE,
We are still at Bizerta, or rather in the middle of the beautiful bay of that name. Ours was the first boat in. There will be eighteen in all. Already one sees some very remarkable ones : Savoie, Provence, Eien Hoa, Paul Lecat, Australien, Italie, and so on. It is a fine sight, but it is so rough that it is almost impossible to communicate between the boats.
I ought to have gone to Tunis to-day to buy medicines, but no craft can put out. It is rumoured that we go to Malta to take in coal, and from there to Gallipoli. We shall leave in four or five days' time.
I am wonderfully well, and am high-spirited. But I am thinking of my little wife, and I am so sorry not to have her with me ! You would like so much my room on board. But you would not like the strong smell of the stables. We cannot even open the portholes, because the horses put their heads through them.
Yesterday we visited the arsenal of Bizerta and the town of Ferryville, also the Naval Hospital, where I found friends.
One quickly recognises Arab scenery. It is so simple. Blue sky, white houses with battlements, Barbary fig trees, grey asses. The market attracts us with its fruits and vegetables. The market wives of the port haggle over the price of oranges and salads with the same obstinacy as in France.
I visited the Naval Hospital, in which the excellent traditions of the Navy are kept up with a strong degree of originality and local adaptation. It is a model colonial hospital.
A very brisk return on a vedette of the Lorraine. The
BIZERTA AND TUNIS 3
famous port of Bizerta is an open roadstead. In the evening the boats sparkle with light. The sky is studded with stars and the breeze is deliciously fresh.
My Colonel asks the General to let me go to Tunis to- morrow to complete the supply of medicaments.
Good-bye, dearest one. Everything is quite all right. I kiss you many times, and with all my heart. Tell me as quickly as possible that you are well again.
Your JOE.
March 8.
P.S. — We learn at breakfast news of very great import- ance. The Greek Minister Venizelos has resigned.
We find out only to-day for certain that we are the " Corps Exp£ditionnaire d'Orient," the C.E.O. for short.
ON BOARD " LA LORRAINE," IN BIZERTA ROADSTEAD,
March 9. MY DEAREST WIFE,
We didn't move at all, but are still at the same spot. We ought to start in four days for the front — the " Oriental " one.
There is nothing new. Thanks to our very comfortable quarters, we could stay here a long time. The climate is soft and agreeable ; the wind has gone down. We are still forbidden to go on shore. I hope nevertheless to be able to visit Tunis. We shall soon be alongside the quay.
My cabin is now much adorned. Your photograph as a chorister boy is at the head of my pitch-pine bed. On the portholes, which are still closed because of the horses, there are pictures from the Sketch and even from La Vie Parisienne. On my big sofa there are cushions.
Everything is in apple-pie order. My saddle is ready,
• a
4 UNCENSORED LETTERS
the holsters and the saddle bags filled, my two tin trunks are prepared, and I know almost to a needle what I have inside. Nothing is wanting.
I have at last all my medicines. We can make a good show. In the white battalion there is a fair number of young soldiers who are very willing, but, who have, I fear, very little power of resistance to illness. As for the Senega- lese, they have already been at the front in France. Then they were sent to the South of France for the winter, where they underwent a second training, so they are fine and fit.
From the upper bridge of the boat one overlooks in the immense bay of Bizerta, as large as that of Brest, fifteen of the finest boats of our merchant fleet.
Yesterday the weather was exquisitely soft. The sea was calm. It stretched round in a pale green sheet without a ripple. On the nearest coast there is a first ridge of hills covered with spring verdure, striped with the dark lines of olive trees. Other hills are ranged behind on a blue back- ground with broken outlines.
I can distinguish a native village on the shore, which is of a dazzling white. It is called Menzel abder Raman. Doubtless I shall never see it ; but surely it is pretty. Crenelated towers, domes and spires of minarets break up its sky-line like lace.
Our boat is an auxiliary cruiser which moves very quickly, so as to escape submarines. It was one of the great Transatlantic liners much patronised by the Americans.
In the saloons where formerly pretty women moved about, there are groups of rough soldiers going to the war. The paintings have been covered up, the curtains and the hang- ings taken away, and the valuable furniture stored for safety. Across the mirrors, which have had to be left in place, have been stuck wide bands of white paper to pre- vent them from being broken by the firing of the guns.
BIZERTA AND TUNIS 5
I have asked the Temps to send me that paper. You can send me English periodicals — The Times and others.
This morning it was raining ; but now the sun has come out again. It is very fine. I have given the new address to all the members of the family likely to write to me. Ask sometimes by postcard for news of her son from Marie and of Pierre from Victoire.
At 7 this evening the Colonel informs me that I can go to Tunis to-morrow. It has been decided to send a doctor to buy medicaments and serums. The Army officer who was charged with this duty declared that he could find nothing. I decide to leave the ship at 8 o'clock.
Dearest little Wife, — I cannot bring myself to believe that we are separated for a long time. I so long to have you near to me, and to cover you with my caresses.
Your JOB.
TUNIS, March 10-11-12. MY DEAR WIFE,
I am writing you from Tunis. I could not go on board the tug till mid-day. The sea has at last gone down. The commandant's steward furnished me with a basket full of victuals, but I only touched the mandarines. Rain, hail, wind.
I stopped at the Naval Hospital to see my friends again and present my respects to Dr. Barth61emy, the director. He is very well up in events in the East. He reminds me that the Gallipoli peninsula had French hospitals there during the Crimean War. A large number of doctors perished of typhus and cholera.
I take the train to Tunis at 4.40 p.m. I go up the Avenue de France to the Hotel Splendide. Nothing pic- turesque. A fine provincial town quite new — and dead. After dinner I go by tram towards the Kasbah. No more
6 UNCENSORED LETTERS
cafes, concerts, no more dance-du-ventre. No one in the streets. It appears that since the war it is always like that. In my official duty I have succeeded beyond anything I could have hoped, but at the cost of what effort and fatigue !
It is 10.30 in the evening. I am worn out. I am drop- ping with sleep, but I don't want to leave Tunis without sending you a line.
I have had sent to you from here a few grammes of pure attar of roses. You must put it in 700 or 800 grammes of refined alcohol, and you will then have pure attar of roses for the handkerchief.
We leave on the ijth. Many of the big boats have already left Bizerta. We don't know where we are going, but probably we shall land at Gallipoli.
Under my windows is the flower market. The cathedral, in line with the other buildings, comes into view behind some palm trees. Now I know at Tunis all the druggists, all the chemists, the management of the Service de Sante (from the head doctor's bureau there is a magnificent panorama), the Bey Hospital, the Pasteur Institute. I dined with the director of the Pasteur Institute, who loaded me with serums and vaccines. I finished the after- noon under the "souks."
We are very well and very happy.
I have bought a little camera for a trifle — a marvel. It has been tried. You shall have photographs all finished, and even enlarged. In the meantime here is a film. It is not bad. In it I come out a little bent because the camera was not straight.
March 13.
To-day we had a great distribution of medicaments and various dressings to the three battalions. All the doctors were there.
BIZERTA AND TUNIS 7
At I p.m. we got under way. The filing past in the pass of Bizerta under a radiant sun in a spring breeze was incomparable. A company of infantry of the line paid us the honours. The " Marseillaise " was played. The moment was a solemn one. We leave the port by a devious route, in order to avoid mines.
With field-glasses one easily distinguished on the quays numbers of cheering people. Children, small schoolgirls and young girls are especially in evidence. Our squadron proceeds in order. We form the rear guard. The Savoit is flank guard in front and to the left.
March 14.
In the morning the coasts of Sicily in the distance. We only do ten knots in order to wait for the Bien Hoa, which goes no faster. We are thus all exposed to submarines. I learn that we are sailing towards Lemnos. The Savoie and the Lorraine act as cruisers in the little squadron. Everyone is at his fighting station. There are two officers of the watch on the bridge. The guns are loaded.
March 15.
At sea. Weather absolutely delicious. Sea calm. Good-night, dear little wife whom I love. My kisses and all my heart. Your JOE.
AT SEA ON THE " LORRAINE " FACING CYTHERA,
March 16. DEAREST WIFE,
To-morrow we shall arrive at the end of our voyage, an island near to the Dardanelles. We shall probably land, men and horses : then when the moment arrives we shall push on further. The English or Italian papers will doubtless take it upon themselves to tell you where we
8 UNCENSORED LETTERS
are going. We don't know ourselves. If we knew we might not say.
We left Bizerta on the I3th, and since then the weather has been delicious and the sea beautifully calm.
At 5 o'clock in the morning we were opposite Crete and Cerigotto. At 8 o'clock in front of Cythera and the coasts of Greece. We met a section of the Mediterranean squadron which continues its sentry duty. They say there are the Courbet, the Paris, and four other great units of the " Danton " class, as well as high-sea torpedo-boats. The Admiral-in-Chief is on the Courbct. Acclamations, hurrahs. We draw away from each other. The squadron leaves us and pursues its course. It was a marvellous spectacle in an incomparable setting.
The Greek mainland, arid and full of colour, rises from the sea. Mountains covered with snow are outlined against the horizon like a subtle cloud. It is the Taygete. At 1.30 p.m. we pass between the island of Faconniere and the island Anti-Milo. At 5 between Zea and Makronisi.
The sun sets in a glory at once sumptuous and simple. The sea becomes iridescent with gold dust. The distance is strewn with blue or purple islands separating us from Athens.
I was able to go again to Tunis — on a mission — to com- plete our provisioning of medicines. I succeeded in supplying my regiment beyond all expectation. I became familiar also with the very curious town.
There are two Tunises — the European Tunis, which is modern and doubtless very agreeable to live in, and the native Tunis, which is not, but is very old and of a perfect pic?turesqueness. It evokes a strange impression, one into which enters a seductive charm and at the same time a great sadness.
The Mussulman quarter is set in a solemn frame ; colours and lines are not lacking, but the finest ornament
BIZERTA AND TUNIS 9
of Nature — woman — is suppressed. It is extensive. The cupolas, minarets, keeps, forts stretch along the sea and ascend the hills. Many of these make beautiful white silhouettes. The sea is very blue.
The principal things to see in Tunis are the " souks." These are sort of street bazaars, covered and bordered with shops where the natives go to idle, to walk, and to buy stuffs, leathers, jewels, carpets, perfumes, and so on. The shops are interspersed with caf6s and mosques.
For instance, the " Souk-el-Trouk " is the street for stuffs and mantles. A framework of wood, curiously entangled, roofs the narrow street, which is paved. The sides are formed of booths, all alike separated by little columns of beylical colours, green and red. Each booth is a shop filled with stuffs which flow over outside and hang down all along as if for a holiday.
The covered passage bends in a curve agreeable to the eye. Through holes cleverly arranged in the roof rays of sunlight pierce, and form spots of dazzling gold on the weird colours of the stuffs, on the little striped columns, and on the paving cobble-stones. Over it all floats the meditative atmosphere of a temple. The motionless shop- keepers, squatting in Turkish fashion, talk without gestures. In the street grave men pass. Then come forms swathed in ample white or black garments. You surmise that they are women, perhaps attractive and pretty. . . . But instead of the face which enlightens, the face which smiles and lights up the soul, there is a black mask.
This is the Arab woman. It seems that the most beauti- ful never go out. Farther on I see young girls come out of a school — a whole swarm of little Arabs. They all wear the veil, hiding the face entirely, even the eyes !
Your JOE.
CHAPTER II
THE ISLES OF GREECE
March 17. DEAR ANXIOUS ONE,
I am absolutely perfectly well. Don't worry about me. The Service de Sante will go on famously. I have some excellent doctors and some fairly good ones. I have obtained a reasonable quantity of medicines. Our officers are fine — the Colonel very amiable, very intelligent and benevolent. The men are well disciplined and willing.
We arrived at Lemnos, Gulf of Mudros, this morning the I yth inst., and shall stay here to-morrow. After to-morrow probable departure for an unknown point on the Dardanelles.
Lemnos is one of the famous Isles of Greece, which in the spring weather preens itself in the most entrancing colours. We have not yet been allowed to land, but from the bridge of our boat we look on sights of veritable beauty. The air is tenuous, and of an extraordinary purity. Every- thing seems to be coloured by a magic brush.
This evening there was a sunset which was a pure Greek marvel. After nightfall we all went into the inner bay behind the boom. All the boats were lit up in the dark — it was magnificent.
I don't know what the future may have in store for us. In any event, we have finished a voyage of great interest and peculiar charm. A thousand times a day I regret on
THE ISLES OF GREECE u
your account that you are not with us. How you would have loved all that we do and all that we shall do !
I would have loved to have you here, for your and for my sake also, and because I learn to love you more and more each day.
Forget my bad temper, forget my stupidities of the last few months. We are still very happy in each other. When will you come and rejoin me at Constantinople ?
I embrace you with all the strength of my soul, dear little wife. Your JOE.
March 18. MY DEAREST,
The beautiful peace of yesterday is no more. A rather lively breeze has sufficed to destroy it. The bay is agitated, the surface of the waters is troubled; one perceives an unusual freshness — an indication of a sudden change of weather.
Our Brigade General came on board at 9 o'clock. At 11.40 I had a conference with the battalion doctors.
General d'Amade makes for the Dardanelles on the English cruiser Phaeton. We pay the usual honours. A company lands near the point of Limni for practice in trying unsinkable rafts.
Our Colonel is still unwell. Several English boats carry- ing troops left Lemnos for the Dardanelles . . . no, for Port Said. There have been grave events in Egypt. The boats returned here less than twenty-four hours later.
Finally they say that General-in-Chief Ian Hamilton has taken upon himself to send back his troops," since all was finished."
12 UNCENSORED LETTERS
March 19.
Landing practice. The wicker rafts were made at the time of the Fashoda business for the invasion of England ! Nothing could be more complicated. They inspire no con- fidence in spite of the real ingenuity of the arrangement.
I am charged with a mission together with Captain Goetz and Lieutenant Petiot. We have to explore the country, or rather a specified sector, in order to decide on the spot for a bivouac. Craggy, rocky soil, arid and thyme- scented, where sheep graze.
Some Greek shepherds of classic picturesqueness talk to us in the language of Homer. We are delighted at understanding a few words. A fine old man has the good- ness to conduct us to all the springs, one by one, at which his lambs drink. It is pretty now and then.
These would be something to rhyme about for a long time, but not the wherewithal to provide drink for a regi- ment. We search further. We halt at midday for lunch. Magnificent scenery over the Bay of Kondia, the town of the same name built in terraces and clinging to the grey rocks. We are attracted by the town, which seems worth seeing. We discover a river, where we could plant our tents.
When we return on board the sea is rough. Some rafts laden with troops were in perdition for an hour.
We learn on board vague bad news of the Dardanelles. Some ironclads must have gone down. The weather gets more and more rough. To-night there is a tempest.
March 20.
The tempest continues. It is a sudden and radical change. Lemnos, the island which had charmed us by its tranquil beauty, is quite enwrapped in fog, swept by
THE ISLES OF GREECE 13
violent winds, lost in a wicked greyness. All the boats drag on their anchors.
The Savoie has gone to sea ; many others have imitated her. We rock badly. There are very disagreeable jerks. Every moment we expect to put out to sea.
March 21.
The tempest abates ; the sun shines again. Orders came this morning to land the regiment. Captain Braun and I go to reconnoitre the site of our camp. We leave the ship on a vedette at 1.30 p.m. Mudros is a little port, a modest village, invaded by French and English soldiers, sailors, horses, Greek traders. The houses are badly built, more picturesque than comfortable.
The English khaki is everywhere in evidence. It is Sunday. One works all the same. The French uniforms of all colours display a Shrove Tuesday incongruity. The engineers shift earth and finish a bridge. The English have been at Mudros for a fortnight. There are from forty-five to fifty boats in the port.
There are no orders, but it appears that we are depart- ing. Return difficult with the vedette in the spray. The sea is rough again.
March 22.
Bad weather. Since yesterday evening orders not to dis- embark another man. We shall probably go to Mitylene. While waiting some boats signal : " We have no more water, we have no more bread. Our horses are dying of hunger and thirst. . . ."
Yesterday one of the English cruisers went right on the rocks of the island. It is 6° C. this morning, whereas
H UNCENSORED LETTERS
yesterday it registered 22°. The English were in khaki cloth and colonial headgear.
In the afternoon the Colonel was summoned on board to a military conference. Everything is suspended. We are about to depart. Perhaps we shall endeavour to take possession of an island.
But what isle is there in the Aegean Sea which is not already Greek, English, or Italian ? Perhaps the Colonial Brigade would be able to stay on land a few days, but where ?
The Colonel has fallen ill again. On account of the mumps a general gargle has been prescribed on the bridge. So far my throat seems clear of any suspicious pain.
Love from your JOE.
IN LEMNOS ROADSTEAD ON BOARD THE " LORRAINE,"
March 24. DEAR LITTLE ONE,
We are now here since the i/th. We have not landed. Only a few officers went ashore. I was one of the favoured ones, having been sent officially. Our horses have not left the ship since leaving Toulon. We do not know how long we shall have to stay here, but we are extremely well and in a happy mood.
Everything seemed to foretell a long stay here, when orders came this evening to be ready to start off to-morrow. Nobody knows where.
We have had some bad weather — so bad, it was danger- ous to leave the ship. There is a brilliant sun, but still a big swell. The port of Mudros is not much sheltered. As we are anchored at a good distance from the shore we thought we had been the only ones to suffer, but several large
THE ISLES OF GREECE 15
transports have taken shelter, and a motor vedette went down head first.
The battleships Queen Elizabeth and Implacable, several two-funnelled cruisers, and some torpedo-boats have returned to port. Many personal disputes, many muddles. At last we are able for the first time to land some sick ! The hospital boat Duguay-Trouin has arrived. We are still keeping our twenty-six contagious cases (mumps, scarlatina, measles).
With a cabin like mine it would be possible to live on board comfortably for months. Every now and then evening entertainments are arranged, with magic lantern, songs, recitations.
You probably know what is happening here better than we do. Some men-of-war have been sunk in the Darda- nelles ; and operations will apparently take longer than was at first supposed. All we have to do is to wait ! Patience is a military virtue.
I have two horses and two Senegalese orderlies. The latter know their duties, and look after me well. On shore I shall have meals with the Colonel and his aide-de- camp. We have an excellent cook ; and the three of us together receive eight rations — enough to satisfy eight insatiable soldiers.
From 9 to 10 a grand entertainment, ditties in the salle des fetes.
One of my infirmary cart-drivers is a circus clown in civil life. I have never seen a more extraordinary phenomenon. He dances, he sings, he twists himself about : he boasts that he has a thousand tricks in his bag.
As head doctor to the regiment I have a telephone post at my disposal, with six to eight European operators. This will enable me, during the fighting, to be in
i6 UNCENSORED LETTERS
constant communication with the Colonel and with all the other doctors.
There is a continual and wonderful movement of ships — a whole fleet of British men-of-war, of which you would be proud, my little English wife.
In to-day's Divisional General Order No. 8, there is a gem dedicated to the Press : " A private traveller, without a post, without authorisation, has succeeded in placing himself and all his luggage on board the auxiliary cruiser Provence. The General commanding the C.E.O. reminds (his men) that access to the ships transporting troops and materials should be under very rigorous control. This rule is even more strictly binding in the present circumstances, in war and the vicinity of the enemy. Everyone . . . etc." (here follows a long palaver). We do not know whether the journalist has been shot. Rumour says that he got off with a fine. He had to copy out the accusing order twice.
When the weather is clear like to-day, one perceives in the north a mountainous mass covered with snow. Jt is Samothrace.
There is a question of leaving to-morrow for Alexan- dria. The English Admiral Garden has been replaced since the i6th by Admiral de Robeck.
I hope you are safe in the bosom of your family. I think of you every minute. You are present in my thoughts as if we were not far from each other.
I never understood so deeply what love bound us. I can't understand how I could sometimes have been so tiresome, since my love for you is as complete as in the first days of our marriage.
Give me news of all your family.
I want nothing. All goes well. Tell me quickly that you are in excellent health.
Your HUSBAND and your PROUD ALLY.
THE ISLES OF GREECE 17
March 25. MY OWN WIFE,
We left Lemnos at 1 1 o'clock in the morning, in fresh weather and a swell, at the same time as the Vinh Long. Complete immobility in an excellent deck-chair, bathed in sunshine. All day we are going to sail through the seas where ancient Greece has left so many traces of beauty.
We are a prey to too many painful feelings to savour all the charm dwelling upon these waters. To sum up, we are beating a retreat without having fought. We had dreamt of aiding our brothers struggling on other fronts by opening the road to Constantinople and Berlin.
At about 1.30 p.m. we are abreast of Mitylene. A battle- ship on the horizon . . . the Charlemagne. In a bay another French battleship, which, according to the Com- mandant, can be no other than the Gaulois.
From 4 to 7.30 p.m. we skirt the rich and famous island of Chios. Inimitable scenery and colouring. Blue twilight. It is deliciously mild ; the air is light and very pleasant. . . . Nobody knows whether Chios is Turkish or Greek. Our guns are ready to speak, anyhow.
March 26.
On waking we are between Rhodes and Scarpanto, in ideal weather. We pass the boat Sapphire, of the English Navy. Afterwards there was a high sea as far as Alexandria.
At 4 p.m. we meet a transport which has lots of English soldiers on board. "Marseillaise," "God Save the King," bugles, hurrahs. Good-night, J.
CHAPTER III
RAMLEH AND LEMNOS
ALEXANDRIA, March 27. HEART OF MINE,
I went up on the bridge about 6 o'clock and perceived a long low line without relief or colour. We saluted with all our delighted hearts. At 7.45 we entered the port. On our right imposing African scenery, slender minarets, palm trees, white cubes of masonry, rose-coloured sand. We kept on.
A forest of masts, lots of steamboats. We came to anchor in front of the American armoured cruiser Tennessee. We came alongside; then we disembarked about I p.m. An immense bridge, worked by 100 natives, rose as high as the upper spar deck of the Lorraine ; and immediately, without accident, trooped off a flood of men, then horses and material. Everything has been foreseen and pre- arranged.
We are in an English country. What a contrast to Lemnos !
Carriages and motors await my sick, who are carried off without delay. Our arrival had not been announced beforehand, but some friendly compatriots were there.
The first is a small energetic lady in black tailored costume, with fair hair, who from on board had puzzled us a great deal. She is interested in our sick. Intro-
RAMLEH AND LEMNOS 19
ductions take place. Madame la Comtesse de ,
directress of a local journal.
Immediately a very sympathetic atmosphere. " If we had known, your soldiers would have been better received . . ."
Colonel Nogues and I take a carriage through the town. We are obliged to take the electric tram to Ramleh. There we again find the troops, who have been cheered all the way. The captains wear roses in their button-holes. Flowers have been thrown.
The trams fill with soldiers, perspiring and red ; the crowd surrounds them — offers them oranges and cigarettes. We start towards our future camp.
The road is lined with fine new houses, then villas. Some appear very beautiful. The gardens, filled with roses, jessamines and carnations, perfume the spring air. As we pass, the windows are opened, hands are clapped, kisses are blown towards us.
At 5 p.m. we are on the site of the camp. It is a fine beach, with undulating ground and groups of bushes. On the left a Khedivial palace, on the right some wind- mills with large sails and a mosque. Behind, Victoria College, where the General will reside with his staffs.
The English have perfectly defined the limits of our camp. Nothing is lacking. Water flows in abundance from taps within easy reach. We have the use of a telephone cabin. I have a tent put up beside the Colonel's, while a sympathetic crowd surrounds and questions us.
At night a high wind, tempest, torrents of rain. It appears that it never rains at this period at Alexandria !
I took a long time to go to sleep, not because of the storm, but because in the tents of the men, too close, there were not a few drunk. They never finish telling how well they have been treated.
20 UNCENSORED LETTERS
March 28.
Rose at 5 o'clock. Rain, squalls, lightning, thunder. Our tents have already been almost carried away by a squall. The small tents of our men are a lamentable sight.
However, the hive is working, the kitchens are being organised, the coffee is getting hot. The sun dries, im- proves and makes things shine once more.
Visitors invade the camp. Many accost me personally. Lady visitors are in the majority. We take our first breakfast in the wooden hut which was destined for a canteen. Our cook is a real cordon bleu. He is called Bayac. Colonel Moll brought him up, and often took him to Paris.
Bayac has made use of his knowledge of French. You shall see how. We found one day on our table ten postcards which were written on and bore addresses. They had been forgotten there. By whom ? . . . We read. Zounds ! They were tender and well phrased. They were all addressed to women : Mademoiselle Maria . . . Madame Ernestine . . . and the rest — very significant.
No doubt this was Bayac's work. He is certainly very good-looking. The expression of his face is very gentle and intelligent.
Torrid heat ; blinding light from the sands. Tent 40° Centigrade at midday. Cold tub ; then ride on horse- back to the first village. The camp swarms in all directions with the population of Alexandria, which tries in all manner of ways to spoil our troopers. The three battalions are separately grouped. My medical service is a model.
Other regiments arrive and spread out on the plain, which is hazy and empty as the desert.
Alexandria is a very straggling town. We all returned from Lemnos except one regiment. We don't know how long we shall stay here or where we shall go afterwards.
RAMLEH AND LEMNOS fl
I haven't been into Alexandria from here yet. It is II kilometres, but there is an electric tram near by. I rode for two hours this afternoon. I am extremely well.
Dinner. Korka doses my tent. Some melancholy moments.
All my love, dearest one. Yours, JOE.
March 29. MY DEAR WIFE,
Everything is all right. I am quite comfortable in my tent. We could both live in it together, and you would certainly like this life. My tent is large and spacious. I have tried to make it attractive, because plenty of people (including many young girls) want to look at it.
The weather is rather changeable. It is extremely hot here during the day, but on the other hand it is fresh once the sun has gone down.
Fresh and rainy to-night. My tent, though the rain beats on it all the time, is watertight. In the first rays of the sun it looks as yellow as an orange.
I make choice of a little black horse as a second mount. He is young and vigorous, but that is all. I feel very strong and healthy.
We are being spoilt by the Alexandrians.
At 4 o'clock in the evening I take the tram for Alexan- dria. Shopping tiresome, for there is no longer anything in the shops. The English and Australians have bought everything. As in Paris, there are the Louvre and the Galeries Lafayette.
From habit, or perhaps because the saleswomen are
22 UNCENSORED LETTERS
pretty, I always begin my trips with the Grands Maga- sins. " We have never seen French soldiers in Egypt ! " They all rushed out like a torrent into the street when a regiment passed by. And the question shot out like arrows : " What is that one ? . . . How many * 75 ' guns are there ? . . ." True little patriots, they have doubtless learnt much.
After dinner, our joyous company grew by several units. We went to see the dance du-ventre. There was nothing aesthetic about it. I went back to camp early.
March 30.
Thick fog on awaking. Horse-ride from 8 to 10. Suffo- cating heat during the siesta.
I went to Alexandria about 5 o'clock. After tea, at
Madame tete-a-tete with Madame , I go to the
Galeries Lafayette. Interviews. Little by little all the shopwomen surround us.
Then one of the great ladies of the town, a customer, arrives. They prepare to disperse, but she insists on their not putting themselves out. She mixes in the con- versation. Magnificent figure ; skin clear and creamy ; fair, green eyes. She wears a white toque with an aigrette, bodice of white lace and white skirt. I lost my head and invited her to the theatre this evening, to dinner, to the cinema — I know not what.
I am in turn invited to dejeuner. The white aigrette has seen me at the camp of Ramleh. I was just shaving. I remember her very well. She chose with me a yellow lining for my tent. I returned to camp in glorious moon- light and full of romance.
RAMLEH AND LEMNOS 23
March 31.
I rise early. A horse-back ride with the Colonel. I mount for the first time his horse, which will become my " Dix Avril." I adopt it. Along the canal. Verdant plain. Farm ; cultivated fields. Wheat and poppies.
Against a blue metallic sky, like a glass, rise the white minarets of a lonely mosque and the limitless sand, grey and rose. A few solitary palm trees. I dine in town.
April I.
I have been riding in the streets of Ramleh between villas with admirable gardens : roses, carnations, bou- gainvilleas, lemon trees, jasmines, palm trees, cocoanuts. No feminine apparition on this scene. At about 9 o'clock the windows open, however, and a few pretty faces, still half-asleep, interrogate space.
Dejeuner on the road to Alexandria with a French family settled in the country. Its head has important administrative duties. It has also connections with well- known families.
Sumptuous menu ; hearty reception ; exquisite dresses ; intellectual and varied conversation. Afternoon of music and song. Intoxicating aromas ; memories of Paris. Appointments for to-morrow.
Good-night, my loved one. Your JOE.
April 2. DEAREST,
I am sitting in my tent. It is hot, windy, and full of flies everywhere. At any rate, I feel extremely well, and
24 UNCENSORED LETTERS
quite calm and contented with everything. My only pre- occupation is not knowing how long we shall stop here. Perhaps in London you are better informed than we in this desert. If it was for a month, how gladly I would telegraph to you to join me here. But we may start off at any minute. My infirmary is well placed, under canvas, of course, like the rest of the camp. The ladies come and visit and interest themselves in my patients, and give them all sorts of things.
My tent is comfortable. At the entrance is a table and a chair. For light I have an oil lamp with which I am fairly satisfied.
This morning, to make my tent prettier and cooler, I have lined it with a brilliant yellow material a yard wide. My servant Korka sewed it. Flies hate yellow, so it is both useful and pleasant.
I take my tub every day between 2 and 3. Unfortu- nately people always seem to choose that time to come and see me. You will see how hot it is when I say that I take the water straight from the tap.
I will send you to-day, either with this or under separate cover, photographs of this place, especially of the camp.
April 3. DEAREST,
Nothing new. My health is perfect. Climate hot, but healthy.
In the morning, exercise, horse-back, reports, and atten- tion to the sick, few in number.
Tea with Madame , then a carriage ride round the
town. Touching farewells. N. and I dine at the restau- rant. Back early to camp.
AT KAMI.KH CAMP, NEAR ALEXANDRIA.
7.OUAVKS DIGGING IN FOREGROUND AT RAMI.KH.
A MARCH ON THE ROAD TO ABOUKIR.
THE REVIEW OK THE CORPS EXPEDITION NAIRE D ORIENT BY GENERAL D'AMADE.
RAMLEH AND LEMNOS 25
April 4.
On horse-back from 6 to 1 1 o'clock on my dear Gris ; very capricious, but so spirited.
The French colony of the town comes at 4 p.m. to the camp to bring our soldiers some dainties and Easter eggs. The Colonel and the officers offer them champagne. Toasts. They are a varied and very curious collection of Frenchwomen beyond the Mediterranean. Clothes in good taste. Figures neat enough ; faces charming. . . .
To-morrow is Easter. A family invites N. and me to
dejeuner. I arrived very late for tea with Madame .
Scolded. A silk dress embellished, painted and soft. Low necks, diamonds and jewels. After tea, champagne cup with strawberries.
April 5.
I wake up perished with cold and rather tired. The cloth of my tent is saturated with water like a sponge. Fog everywhere.
We go into town to be present at the consular mass. General d'Amade and our Minister to Egypt represent France. The whole of a numerous population which has not been able to find room in the church awaits our exit. From group to group, outside, we find all our friends again.
Dejeuner with some French friends. Madame was at the patriotic demonstration at the camp yesterday.
We have come across a family, accounted out here very French, in which monsieur is of the pure Levantine type, that is to say, Greek, Egyptian, Italian or some other. Madame is very pretty and steeped in French literature. Madame's brother is a Levantine with curled hair. Her Italian sister-in-law has rather Austrian tendencies. The
26 UNCENSORED LETTERS
whole atmosphere was certainly very fdr from that of our country. Little remains of France in it.
We pass the afternoon at the Sporting Club. There are some tennis-players whose form is very good.
Your devoted HUSBAND.
April 6.
To-day, dear little wife, we have a sandstorm from the desert, which began last evening. All night, squalls and sand dust. It is cold on awaking. In the distance a dull light. We are always thirsty.
Fortunately, about 10 o'clock the light returns for the review of the troops held by General d'Amade. A very fine military spectacle, but a century late.
It was the remembrance of Bonaparte and Aboukir which floated over the review — a magnificent scene. We all displayed again our stripes and decorations. The African " chechias " shone out bright red.
The sun joined in the fete. The colours of the uniforms were thrown into relief by the yellow grey sand, and weapons regained their brilliancy ; the soldiers of the Republic, whom the mirage of the desert magnified^ whom history resurrected, prepared for triumph.
All the French of Egypt, an enormous crowd, delirious with enthusiam, acclaimed the Army.
General d'Amade presents the troops to General Sir Ian Hamilton, Commander-in-Chief of the Eastern Expedition.
We were all electrified. To-day our regiment was given its colours. In the tribunes we recognised familiar toilettes.
Flowers fell at the feet of our prancing horses. ... It was the glory of the past, the epoch of Napoleon, which we represented. Our destinies were full of promise, but
RAMLEH AND LEMNOS 27
battle had not yet tried us. Those who were going to die intoxicated themselves for the last time with the smiles of women and the memories of history.
When we returned to our tents, " they " came to chat with us. " They " had been in the front benches of the stand, and " they " had been filled with admiration.
All the town was present. It was a holiday. We invited " them " en bloc to dine in town in the evening.
In the afternoon, races at the Sporting Club. Astonish- ing assembly of elegant toilettes — faces and features of a variety and of beauty. I am introduced by the Lieutenant- Colonel to the daughter of our Consul-General.
At dinner there were mannequins from the " Grands Magasins," who had graciously accepted our invitation.
Your JOE.
April j. MY DEAREST WIFE,
I am very troubled not to have received a single word of you since the gth of March. Your father wrote to me, and said practically nothing about you.
We are leading a very varied and very healthy life. I'll give the usual daily routine.
The reveille sounds at 5 a.m. A few minutes later my Senegalese servant Korka pokes his head through the tent door and says " Tu veux ton caf6 ? " " Vous " does not exist in his vocabulary. He brings it. It is always detestable. I get up. Riding breeches and leather gaiters.
When I am ready, I visit the infirmary and give detailed orders. The horses come up, my grey, a superb animal, and a little black horse, very nice, which you would love.
28 UNCENSORED LETTERS
I ride very often with Colonel Nogues, sometimes with Nibaudeau, rarely alone.
Limitless stretches of sand — a few palm trees. Every 10 or 15 kilometres an Arab town, very picturesque in the distance under the blue sky, but filthy and smelly at close quarters.
Yesterday I went to Aboukir. At first all the doors were shut ; later the children dared to show themselves, and then the women followed — veiled.
We are much feted at Alexandria. I am invited out a great deal. People come to me when they wish to give presents to soldiers and patients.
Yesterday three Mussulman women asked to see me, and I showed them round the camp. Their faces were veiled and their costumes hidden under black draperies of uniform pattern.
There have been races, where we went with Nibaudeau.
If I had news of you I should be easy and much calmer. I hope it won't be much longer before I hear.
I asked our Brigade General if we should remain long here, and if I could have you out. He said we might start off at any moment ; and that on your arrival you risked finding us gone. He also said that if your coming should get known, I should be punished and you deported.
And so you see, darling, we must wait.
Your JOE.
April 8. MY DEAR WIFE,
I begin to be a little melancholy because I have no letters from you. Yesterday I sent a registered letter to you containing money and some photos. It was rather difficult to get a cheque.
RAMLEH AND LEMNOS 29
We shall probably be leaving Alexandria in two or three days, as some of the English and Australian troops are already embarking. It is rumoured that on the i«j.th inst. we of the Corps Exp6ditionnaire d'Orient will be on board en route for ... Gallipoli ?
In town I think they will be sorry to lose us. We have been received everywhere with such sympathy, spon- taneity, and generosity. If I had wished, I need never have had a meal in the camp. There is a continual flow of telegrams, letters, flowers. I receive for my patients all sorts of provisions, cigarettes, newspapers.
Yesterday I dined in town — no lack of pretty women. I must confess that in this — Cleopatra's — country women have great charm and fascination. I think I am one of the officers most in request. A letter from you would have been more welcome and have gone more direct to my heart than all the pleasures and flattery here. Send one quickly to Your homesick HUSBAND
April 12. DEAREST ONE,
I didn't post my letter to-day — nothing new. They say we shall land at Salonika or Smyrna. At any rate, we are ready.
April 13. MY DEAREST WIFE,
I am dining alone in a smart restaurant in Alexandria, and I think of you passionately. I do hope you are well and happy. Don't be worried about your Joe. He will come back in a few months, and we will love each other more and more.
30 UNCENSORED LETTERS
These photos have been taken by a friend. I think they will please you. My new horse is grey, as you will see. Love to all, and kisses to you. Yours TOE
April 14. MY DEAR,
Alexandria is bewitching, but happily the strict military rules of camp life prevent us from being drawn entirely into its toils. Sometimes in my tent, under the burning Egyptian sun, I feel very melancholy, especially at not having letters from you.
If we operate in the Dardanelles Alexandria will remain the chief base.
Important hospitals are also being prepared. If the campaign is a long one, I am therefore hoping that I shall return at some future date, and you will join me here. My dream is vague, but it is like a star which helps and guides me.
I wonder if you receive my letters, postcards, photos. My camera still gives me pleasure: 1,000 cameras have been sold to the armies between Cairo and Alexandria. It will give you souvenirs. We start to-morrow morning for Lemnos (doubtless) and then for the battle in Gallipoli.
Write to the same address, via Marseilles.
Oh, quick, quick a letter, my dear ! TOE
ISLE OF SKYROS (GREECE), April 18.
DEAR WIFE OF MINE,
Here since 4 p.m. yesterday. Cannot forget Alexandria, where we were extraordinarily feted.
The boats arrive one by one : Charles Rouxy Carthage, Duguay Trouin — a hospital boat.
RAMLEH AND LEMNOS 31
We are anchored beside other transports and an English battleship. All lights are put out at night because of the submarines, of which one talks a great deal.
At 7 o'clock, just as we are going in to dinner, the Colonel announces that a landing is ordered.
We doctors arrange the principal details for the Service de Sante". The operating theatre will be established in the Children's Room.
We hope to be at Constantinople next month. The photography goes on marvellously. You ought to have received excellent specimens by now, which should have given you pleasure. Your JOE.
April 21. DEAR LITTLE ONE,
We left Alexandria early on the i6th. We have been here since the afternoon of the I7th. We do not yet know the exact place where we shall attack the Turks. We are among the first landing parties, and we know that hard fighting awaits us. We shall be witnesses of great things.
I am confident and calm. I should be so glad to receive a letter from you before going under fire. I will try and send you news regularly. It is impossible to put stamps on my letters. No one has any of any kind.
If I were wounded and were sent to Alexandria you could doubtless go there at once.
Your financial position is good. I have left you all I possess, all that I can legally dispose of. It is only fair. By your advice and your wisdom we have been able to manage our money well. Besides, you are the dearest thing I have in the world. I have loved you abso- lutely and completely for long, long years without there
32 UNCENSORED LETTERS
being the least shadow. No other woman existed but
you. . . .
******
I must write no more, so as to remain strong and full of courage. I shall doubtless have much to do very soon for those brave little soldiers of mine.
I will tell you about my doings of yesterday. It had been decided that the infantry troops, for practice and training, should go ashore in the cruiser's boats. They were to start at 6 o'clock. I and Dr. Lossman, of the ist Battalion, decided to accompany them. I like Dr. Lossman's company very much. He is very correct, earnest, and sensible. He has left in Brittany a young wife and two children. My faithful Korka woke me at 5. He came with us, his red " chechia " on his head, his gun slung over his shoulder, and carrying a basket with our luncheon.
We were ashore at 7, and began to climb up the nearer side of the island, which rises to about 200 metres. At first it was difficult walking. Thorny plants and stones like veined marble. In between the stones are wild thyme and mint and other plants. Later small flowers begin to show themselves, then whole beds of them — one white bush exactly like our honeysuckle.
It is the country of flowers and sweet scents.
As we mount high the bay stretches out before us like a huge mirror on which boats are painted. They appear very tiny, and yet we can distinguish all their details with unbelievable precision. In the background is the grand scenery of the mountains, which cross the horizon in powerful curves.
We go to the right. The hill is hollowed out into a green valley. There are no cultivated fields, but groups of high trees here and there with great spaces in between covered with grass, which resemble English lawns. It is delicious
RAMLEH AND LEMNOS 33
lying down in the shade of these trees, which are probably wild olives.
The scent of flowers is wafted to us from all around.
Later we continue our climb till we reach the highest point of the island. Under a minute tent a man is sleeping. Another wrapped up in flags and coats continues his night's rest in the sun.
Two English soldiers in khaki are signalling with mirrors. One of them, who looks like a fine old sailor with a grade equivalent to non-commissioned officer, begins to talk. He has seen a lot with the Canopus in the Dardanelles.
It was he who signalled the Turkish torpedo-boat two days ago which came to Skyros, and which on leaving torpedoed the English transport Manitou, 20 miles from here. The Turkish torpedo-boat was pursued by two boats, and was forced to beach itself. It was destroyed, and the crew were transhipped. There were two German officers among them.
The chief of the semaphore station had placed upon a flag on the ground an excellent breakfast, and invited us to do honour to it. In a gigantic goblet was half a pint of excellent tea, a great dish of salmon, bread, biscuits, a pot of apricot jam as big as a world. . . . Korka received a round of beef and an English ration of bread.
We wandered about after that, and by chance came on a small bay which seemed made specially for bathing. It was a beach with very fine sand, and gently sloping. One could see the golden sand for 100 metres' distance. By a transparent light under a very blue sky, colours are glorified and mingle in perfect harmony, and outlines are infinitely soft. We undressed on a beach, where doubt- less formerly trembling nymphs prepared their divine bodies for the water's caresses.
Afterwards we went to an olive-tree wood, which was
34 UNCENSORED LETTERS
a cool oasis. The lambs and goats which wander about without guardians were collected there. Under each tree animals were sleeping. White fleece and black fleece in the green vegetation made arabesque designs.
We had a cold lunch with us, and did it justice. Then we slept for an hour. The wild thyme in the midday sun gave out intoxicating perfumes.
During all this time our plucky little soldiers were train- ing for war, and making trenches in this stony ground with their customary zeal.
We got back on board at 3 o'clock, and I sat down to send you all my news, all my love and a thousand kisses.
J-
April 24. DEAR WIFE OF MINE,
We left Skyros yesterday at 3.15. Weather cloudy and cool. We sailed at top speed under the supervision of cruisers and torpedo-boats. At 8.30 p.m. we anchored. It was here that we came from Bizerta before going to Alexandria.
Some officers thought we were going to land this morning. Everything was ready. An ambulance with seven doctors has joined the Savoie. To-day, at 10 o'clock, Colonel Nogues and Colonel Ruef came back on board after visiting the area where our campaign will begin. While the English attack Gallipoli on the European side, we, the French, shall land at Koum Kaleh. After Koum Kaleh we shall take Yeni Shee, and prevent the enemy here on the Asiatic side from hindering our troops on the European side.
I have completely organised my service for the wounded, I have four big hospitals boats at my disposal, and a dress- ing station on shore. I am head doctor of the expedition,
RAMLEH AND LEMNOS 35
with twenty-one doctors, a chemist and two administrative officers under my orders.
It is a varied organisation, which will not entirely serve, but which, I hope, will save life and give comfort.
On returning from my tour of the boats I had the joy of reading one of your letters. At last ! Since March 8 I had had nothing from you. This letter is dated Bognor, April 4. Think of that !
I have been very plucky, but it was really too hard. My father said in a letter that G. is ill at Toulon ; and according to information from my family you were at Toulon till the I9th of March.
Perhaps they have stolen your letters because they came from England. At any rate you can imagine how happy I have been to-day. I wonder if you received my letters regularly. I wrote postcards, letters, letters and postcards nearly every day. Your family has been in trouble — oh, the grief and sorrow of war !
Love and a long embrace ! T
D I
CHAPTER IV
THE ALEXANDRIAN DIARY
April 24 (midnight).
As we go into action with the dawn to-morrow, my dear little wife, I have spent these last hours putting into shape all my belongings — in case I should not occupy this pleasant cabin again. In clearing out everything I have decided to send you the diary I kept while at Alexandria, although necessarily it goes again over the ground in my letters.
Why not ? On such occasions a husband should have no secrets, no reservations of emotion from the dear wife of his heart. I can trust you to read it as it was meant to be read — and to understand.
April 6.
I am melancholy. Not a single letter from my wife since my departure from Toulon. I must forget and bury myself in the present.
To-day, a very long ride as far as Aboukir. The sea was rough, the wind tempestuous. It was like that doubt- less when our ships were wrecked on those rocks, on this beach in Napoleon's day. The plain is calm and beautiful like our victory on land. . . .
I rode around the Khedive's palace and wished to return by the shore, but it was guarded. The wives of the Sultan bathe there. I saw a pretty little bay where they prob-
THE ALEXANDRIAN DIARY 37
ably go to disport themselves in the water. I got back very late. Everyone was enjoying a siesta. A strong wind was raising a sandstorm.
About 5 o'clock the wind died down and the tents opened. While Mesdames B. and M., both deliciously dressed in white, were with me, I received the visit of three veiled Egyptian women. It is rather embarrassing — how not to offend people of such very different customs and habits ?
But the ice was quickly broken. r While introducing them- selves (the mother, Dalilah and the young sister) they took possession of a bunch of roses on my table.
As the mother understands very little French and the young sister is very much less expert than Dalilah, I risked a few compliments. The veil does not prevent blushes.
They would like to see the camp. I accompanied them to the infirmary, to the machine-gun sections, to the kitchens, to the stables, to the little tents in rows along the beach, where the soldiers look curiously at the Egyptian women. I went as far as the mosque with them.
We became great friends. We have exchanged addresses. To-morrow I am to go there on horseback.
" But is it not forbidden that men should call on Mussul- man women ? "
" My Greek servant is ill — only a French doctor can cure her."
Night was falling. Touching good-byes. The little soul of Dalilah is very strange, and her eyes are more beautiful than any dream.
I had forgotten my white apparitions who had lingered at the Zouave camp. Mutual scoldings when we meet at the tramway station — I have no feeling of jealousy.
38 UNCENSORED LETTERS
April 7.
According to my promise, I went to call on my Turkish friends.
In the evening I dined with an Alexandrian family. Madame seems to have come straight out of a Gains- borough frame. Everything is there, even the favourite head-dress of the artist.
Her beauty is imposing. She was wearing this evening a soft black satin which finished towards the top in rose- cerise. Her friend has big Spanish eyes and all the attrac- tive charm of the Midi.
Afterwards the cinematograph. The box was big, the seats excellent. It facilitate confidences. We took leave of each other very late.
April 8.
I woke up with a sinking heart, almost ill — from the intoxication of last night. Sharp physical suffering. Real sorrow too. I went for a ride, but without enthusiasm, At midday we heard that we are doubtless leaving to- morrow. Everybody knows it in town.
The pretty mannequins of the " Grands Magasins " brought flowers. One of them took my little green Moroccan mirror which I had bought in Tunis.
The white fairies have also been here. They were in dark dresses to-day, but are not the less attractive for that. Distribution of flowers and of amulets to keep off bad luck. Nibaudeau joins us ; he has his share.
We all promised to write to each other regularly. There are to be three pages for all, and a very sentimental one for each of them in turn.
They went, this time again, to the Zouaves' camp. On their return I joined them and accompanied them to the
THE ALEXANDRIAN DIARY 39
tramway. It was late. I returned to my tent in complete darkness.
In spite of the sentinels men are slipping out of camp. For a moment's liberty they are willing to risk many days in prison. Since they landed they have been sequestered at the camp.
The town attracts them. Women unceasingly brush past their tents and excite them. This evening they are drunk with liberty and youth. They escape.
April 9.
To-day we had a rendezvous for tea at Baudrot's. " Gainsborough " had a large white hat and a white and gold dress. On her shoulders a black cape. " Spain's " eyes were sparkling. She had a red rose in her bodice.
We took a carriage to go for a drive. We were cross- ing the rose garden of Alexandria, but I saw nothing. They talked of the perfume of the blooms, the splendour of the flowered bushes. I had never imagined gardens of greater enchantment than the rosery of Alexandria. I seemed to see only their lips.
April 10.
We went to the Sporting Club in the afternoon — races. Incomparable elegance. Bewitching visions. I took snapshots.
We dined on board our old ship the Lorraine, at the table of Commandant M. whom we like so much. The vedette slid gently over the smooth surface of the harbour. After dinner I made a pilgrimage to my cabin. We left the ship about half-past II. The night was cool and clear.
4o UNCENSORED LETTERS
April ii.
A ride with N. in the streets of Ramleh. Some good gallops. We met groups of smartly dressed women coming from church past the lovely gardens of luxurious villas. At a certain moment a military motor car passed in front of us with English soldiers in it. In merry mood they were driving at a great pace.
Suddenly there was a bang — a tyre burst and the car darted on to the pavement. One of the " Tommies " was thrown out. He picked himself up and ran like a madman. I thought the shock had sent him off his head.
I jumped off my horse and ran after him with all my might, following the tracks of blood all along the road. His face and neck were cut by glass, and the wounds were bleeding profusely. One of his arms, too, had several deep cuts.
I made the necessary compressions, bound up his face, neck and arm with chance bandages, and asked for another car to take him to the hospital. I put him in the charge of an English doctor who happened to pass by, and who promised to take him to the hospital. He was my first wounded patient of the war.
There was a dinner party in the evening at the mess of the 3rd Battalion. The guests arrived on small donkeys. A very successful meal — flowers — high spirits — youth and beauty. Afterwards songs and tricks done by a clown who is in the service of the ambulances of the regiment.
We accompanied our guests, when they took leave of us, through the tents where the men are sleeping. In spite of oneself one's thoughts go beyond the present to the battle- fields of to-morrow. The moon was shining brightly, on the white canvas of the tents making them look like tombs.
When we separated we were permitted to kiss the tips of their fingers.
THE ALEXANDRIAN DIARY 41
April 12.
At 4 o'clock in the morning we started with the whole regiment for a march which was supposed to be over at 9 o'clock. On the way we met General d'Amade, who took us 15 kilometres further than was intended and, without eating or drinking, passed us in review on the sand in the midday sun. Beneath his eyes black giants fell. He appeared astonished. Yet the heat was suffo- cating, and nobody had a drop of water in his flask.
It is useless to think of finding water in this desert. We returned, and during the 15 kilometres many fell out. The regiment broke into groups and I galloped from one to another. They said they were only regaining their breath, and they would start again in a minute. This return, dying of thirst and fatigue, is like a mirage of defeat.
The General is not satisfied with us.
At four kilometres from the camp we came on a spring. Camels had rested there and dirtied it all around, but the men dash to it and drink. If you stopped them they would kill you.
One by one they all arrived back. Nobody was missing at the roll-call. Just as I was leaving the camp to go to town I heard a shot fired. I was hurriedly fetched, but it was too late. A Senegalese had blown out his brains.
I forget in tea at Baudrot's the fatigues of the march.
April 13.
A ride with the Colonel this morning. At n o'clock there was an apparition in my tent. We had a bet that she would not come. A friend accompanied her.
Broken bits of sentences, broken phrases, a laugh which did not ring true. With her sunshade she wrote on the sand. ,
42 UNCENSORED LETTERS
The Colonel sends Bayac to fetch me for lunch, but without success. I proposed that we should lunch together at Beau Rivage. Exclamations of joy and surprise.
We had never before escaped thus. " He " was out partridge shooting. A bewitching little foot swung under the dress. The ankle is of an irreproachable purity of line.
The flirtation increases. The friend is scandalised and protests. But what harm is there in only words ; and shall I not have left in some days ?
We met again in the afternoon at Baudrot's. This time it was a more indulgent and absent-minded friend who accompanied her. I proposed a motor drive, or the rose garden ; but she would only permit a little walk in the street.
I continued my talk, and made my adieux late. When I returned to my tent this evening I looked for the marks of her little feet in the sand.
My tent is bathed in light and love.
April 14.
General d'Amade has given orders to recommence the march of the other day. This time the men filled their water-bottles and the sun is less strong. I rejoined the regiment after it had passed by Aboukir.
The attack was carried out as it had been planned. There were sham bayonet charges. " This devil of a man will kill us all," said an officer who knows him, speaking of General d'Amade. Perhaps. But to-day in any case nobody fell out.
When we returned to the camp we heard that we are leaving in a day or two, and that the officers as well as the soldiers are to be confined to camp from 3 o'clock in the afternoon.
The Colonel, however, in his affectionate kindness,
THE ALEXANDRIAN DIARY 43
did not want me to be kept in camp. He himself saw that I should not have any bother. He signed me a special leave at his own risk, and saw me out of the camp at 3 o'clock. I pretended I was not anxious to go into town, but my face probably expressed the contrary.
When I announce the date of our departure, the beautiful head droops, the tender eyes grow misty.
April 15.
At 5 o'clock we broke camp. I only slept a few hours, so I was tired out.
Korka was in a hurry to pull down my tent. When he loosened the cords and lifted the pegs, it fell, only making a little bundle on the ground.
Tents, baggage, horses, all were carried away. Nothing of us remained. The wind has already by now covered our tracks on the sand. I left at 7 o'clock. The troops marched through the town to the sound of bugles.
She told me that she had never received such beautiful roses. Really Alexandria has the cult of flowers. She was happy in untying the bouquet, and in putting the stalks into the vases full of water. Her childlike face beamed with pleasure. There is an exquisite candour in her eyes where all her soul is reflected.
We did not speak for a while. Then her laughing eyes met my despairing ones, and suddenly the expression of all her being was transformed.
" I, too, have much pain that you are leaving," she said. There followed moments of indescribable emotion, such as mark stages in a lifetime. . . . Sadly, I left for my ship — the Savoie.
We were supposed to be raising anchor in an hour or two. Nobody could go ashore again.
44 UNCENSORED LETTERS
At 4 o'clock I was alone on deck awaiting our departure, thinking that all was over. Suddenly Lieutenant A. came up to me. " We are only leaving at midnight," he said. "You are free to go ashore."
I jumped into the only carriage crawling on the quay. I rushed madly back to her house. She was sitting near the window. Her eyes were red with tears. She did not understand how I was still there. She began to laugh amidst her tears.
"Till this evening only." I was on the Savoie at I o'clock.
April 1 6.
Very early in the morning the Savoie raised anchor. Korka rushes joyously into my cabin. " It is departed, we."
Slowly, gently we leave the enchanted land. It is finished — the dream is past.
On reading this over at the last moment before trying to snatch a little sleep I repeat what I have said before.
For the world I would not distress you, Beloved. Do not take it all too seriously.
If I wrote novels, plays, would you be jealous of the heroines ? There is nothing wrong in all these femininities.
Perhaps a beautiful philosophical idea to draw from them. Before going towards death the soldier throws a last glance behind him, and he regrets life and therefore the most beautiful ornament of life — women. There is nothing permanent. It is confused and delicious like a beautiful passing dream — and it does not last. . . .
CHAPTER V
THE LANDING AT KOUM KALEH (FROM THE SHI?)
BEFORE THE DARDANELLES, BETWEEN THE POINT OF EUROPE AND KOUM KALEH,
April 28 (Morning).
MY VERY DEAR WlFE,
The general attack on the Dardanelles commenced on the 25th inst. at 5 o'clock in the morning. The English and French landed on the European coast at two points. Ours, the 6th Colonial Regiment, was required to land on the Asiatic coast and take Koum Kaleh.
Our regiment took Koum Kaleh so as to protect the great disembarkation on the other shore, and only evacuated it as was prearranged. The 6th has covered itself with glory, but at what a price !
Out of 2,800 men 734 are down — a quarter !
Killed ' ;;: : V. < 167 Wounded . . . . 459 Missing .. .. 116
There are besides the engineers, the artillery, the boats. I was doctor in charge of the Koum Kaleh expedition. I had twenty-one doctors under my orders and three hospital boats.
I received the heartiest congratulations from General d'Amade and our immediate chiefs. I am warmly recommended for five stripes — enthusiasm !
My doctors and hospital attendants have been heroic.
At 9 o'clock General d'Amade and his staff came on
46 UNCENSORED LETTERS
board. The Cross of the Legion of Honour was given to Lieutenant G., mortally wounded. Captain Braun and Captain Blanchard and other wounded were presented to the General who congratulated them. Reports — papers — propositions. Many gallant deeds. Our regiment is a regiment of heroes.
I have had sublime stretcher-bearers who will get the military medal, and whom the General-in-Chief made a point of congratulating in person.
In Nibaudeau's battalion all the captains are dead or wounded. Nibaudeau alone is whole.
In another battalion Blanchard was wounded, Braun is wounded, the Colonel is wounded by the bursting of a shell just as he was leaving the Chateau d'Europe. Among the circle round the Colonel a lieutenant was cut in two, three men were pulverised, two lost their legs, and his orderly had the whole of his rump carried away.
I have been on board the Duguay-Trouin to see our wounded there. The wounds are frightful. Of 430 wounded, 345 belong to the 6th Colonial. On board the Savoie I received on the first day in a few hours 73 wounded in the hospital established on board; all went admirably.
In disembarking, the first boat had an officer killed and the whole crew pulverised.
The two engineer officers were killed. One young lieutenant was hung, and no doubt tortured.
We have made 600 prisoners ; and have killed from 800 to 1,000 Turks, and wounded 3,000 to 4,000.
We had in front of us three infantry regiments, heavy artillery, howitzers.
The sight of the Dardanelles these last two days and nights was incomparable — a spectacle unique in the history of the world.
THE LANDING AT KOUM KALEH 47
One sees a mass of dead on the Koum Kaleh shore. On the European side Krithia is burning. The distant hills are being bombarded. There are many ships everywhere. We are before Yenisher — no longer at 3,200 yards as on the 25th, 26th and 2/th, but at more than 4,500.
Tired out, driven from their usual sleeping places, the men are sleeping in every corner — a sleep of lead. At II p.m. reinforcements from the 6th Regiment are sent for in haste. Everybody is up in a few minutes except Korka, who cannot be found. Two companies go ashore under the command of Commandant C. The others wait anxiously. The sea is rather rough. There is a moon.
I have seen everything, and noted much. We have been hit by a number of projectiles.
A Taube circled round us with eight or ten bombs, and burnt us with an incendiary one.
I send you my diary of that ever memorable day — April 25, 1915.
I am very well.
THE DIARY
4 a.m. — I wake up as usual. Everything is quiet. I open my cabin door and look at the place where the men of the regiment have slept squashed together. They are dressing slowly, and have begun to move about.
I go into the dining saloon. Officers are having break- fast and making a bigger meal than usual.
On deck it is hardly light, and the weather is cool. One can just distinguish to the right the Asiatic coast, and in front the Gallipoli Peninsula and the Pointe d'Europe. There are ships everywhere — battleships, cruisers, torpedo-boats, dredgers ; a whole fleet surrounds the peninsula. A light mist covers everything, and
48 UNCENSORED LETTERS
white flaky clouds cling to the valleys of the coast. The Turkish spur appears formidable and very beautiful. The land resembles waves mounting towards the sky, rising out of a mist which hides a mysterious unknown.
Day dawns. — We are surrounded by more and more boats. Before going ashore the colonel of my regiment entrusts me with his personal papers and his will.
5. — The first gun is fired. British battleships start operations. We hear a dull thud like heavy cases being moved in an upstairs room. Then the firing becomes more rapid, and one imagines a distant storm with unending echoes.
Everybody is on deck. We look on in awe and wonder. Smoke is now mixed with the early mists, and the Pointe d'Europe steams like a cauldron.
5.20. — The Askold, a five-funnelled Russian cruiser which is in front of us, starts firing. One, two, three shots are directed on the Asiatic coast.
Our regiment, commanded by Lieutenant-Colonel Nogues, has received orders to land at Koum Kaleh in order to silence the Asiatic batteries and to protect the British landing-parties. , We do not know the number of Turkish troops which will be opposed to us. The artillery works have been partly destroyed by the Allied Fleet. A detach- ment of British marines landed some weeks ago, and put the guns of the castle out of action.
The fixed battery of Oranieh shows at its openings the mouths of enormous cannons. They are certainly useless. We are told that movable batteries have been established at Yenisher, and that the formidable guns of In Tepe are in full working order.
6. — The French battle-cruiser Jeanne cTArc, whose duty it is to protect the Asiastic landing, comes up and places herself in front of us. We are on the Transatlantic liner
THE "JEANNE D'ARC" FROM THE "SAVO1K."
TUB "ASKOLO," AND IN FRONT A TRANSPORT OF TROOPS TO BE LANDED AT KOI M KALEH.
FROM THE "SAVOIE." THE ARTILLERY IS DISEMBARKED AND TOWED TO KOUM KALEH.
ON THE "SAVOIE." A GUN GOING TO I-'IRE ON KOUM KALEH.
THE LANDING AT KOUM KALEH 49
Savoif, converted into an auxiliary cruiser. Her guns shell Yenisher.
The Askold joins us. Now their artillery is directed on the castle of Koum Kaleh. Enormous fountains of steam, dust, fragments, and flames spring up out of the old fortress.
The sun pierces the early mist. It emerges above the Gallipoli hills in the hollow of a bay like an enormous globe of blood-red fire. It is a tableau presaging glory.
The soldiers on our ship prepare to land ; and we approach the Asiatic coast.
Lieutenant-Colonel Nogues says " good-bye " to me. We remain standing together for a few minutes, but with- out speaking.
6.15. — The soldiers are waiting, armed and fully equipped. The cyclists place their bicycles in a corner of the gorgeous first-class dining-saloon. Two soldiers are put on guard beside them. They get hold of the gramo- phone, and begin to play as if they were alone in the world. Their comrades are filling the boats which are waiting. The sea is absolutely calm, without the slightest ripple.
7. — The Navy, commanded by Admiral Guepratte, gives the signal for landing. In Besika Bay the Lorraine is shelling all it can. It is only a diversion, but carried on with tremendous energy.
Colonel Ruei, commanding the Colonial Brigade, and head of the Koum Kaleh expedition, is sleeping on a bench. Lieutenant-Colonel Nogues is stretched on a bench beside him. TheAskold is sending a rain of shells on Koum Kaleh and Yenisher.
7.15. — We advance towards Koum Kaleh. Near us a battle-cruiser bombards Yenisher. Under a very clear sky of an exquisite blue the silhouette of a town appears. One can distinguish every house, every wall, every window.
50 UNCENSORED LETTERS
A little in front windmills, with their spreading wings, topple over under the artillery shots.
The sun, now above Koum Kaleh, bathes us in a golden light. There is a long golden trail on the sea. Blinded for a minute, our gunners direct their blows on the Pointe d'Asie.
7.20. — We advance again. The battery of Oranieh appears clearly. In the opening of a bastion we see a gun pointing towards the sky. A waterplane is flying to our left.
7.30. — Our commandant orders the bugle-call " Stand to arms." The gunners are at their places. Powerful guns are at our disposal. A first shot is fired. Everybody is dazed. One's ears hurt ; the blood goes to one's head. Before we can stuff cotton-wool into our ears a second and a third shot are fired.
The outline of the village of Yenisher is now ragged. It is a destruction, certain, methodical, and regular. We see a big house with a red roof. A first shell marks it with a black fountain of smoke, which hides it for a minute from our eyes. It is ruined, and one feels sad ; for perhaps it has never sheltered other than peaceful people, perhaps wise and philosophic old men or lovers, only absorbed in themselves and their own passionate embraces. The second shot, hitting it full, disembowels it, scattering it to atoms. The third shell ends its agony.
The Gallipoli Peninsula seems to be on fire. The old castle of Sedd-el-Bahr is in flames. We hear that the English are beginning landing operations over there.
On our side the fleet continues its work of preliminary clearing. Our warships fire unceasingly; and the ship I am on trembles. The Askold, quite close to us, lets off each time a broadside of four guns. Green lights flash out from the thick yellow smoke. The shelling becomes quicker and fiercer. The noise is prodigious.
THE LANDING AT KOUM KALEH 51
A shell falls a few metres in front of us. From where did it come ? A second shell sends up a fountain of water in the same place. Other shells come whistling above our heads. I count eight in a few minutes. With our very thin plating one single shell could do us a great deal of harm.
9 to 9.30. — The first landing operations are effected. The soldiers had been placed in all the boats at our dis- posal, and at a given signal had been towed towards Koum Kaleh Castle. The Russian cruiser had lent launches and boats, and sent a naval lieutenant with orders to con- duct the first sections to the beach. . . *< •.
10. — A German aeroplane is flying over us, at a height of 1,000 metres. I can distinguish with my field-glasses the black iron crosses. No doubt is felt about its nation- ality when it lets fall four bombs at 100 metres from our starboard. We are told that it has already visited and circled round other ships before turning its attention to our auxiliary cruiser, the Savoie. It starts off north- wards, pursued by a French biplane.
Our firing becomes more rapid and fierce. The natural peculiarity of the outlines of Yenisher is still further in- creased by the damage done by the shells. The curious landscape is perforated with enormous holes.
The Gallipoli or European coast is magnificently lighted up by a radiant sun. Sedd-el-Bahr and the castle seem to be ruined and evacuated.
The British fleet is still firing, but less fiercely. One can follow the bursting shrapnel which sends up fountains of earth and white puffs of smoke.
II. — We can distinguish clearly both African and white troops beyond the fortress of Koum Kaleh.
The first boats return to the Savoie. In one I see, as it comes alongside, a wounded man who is being brought
52 UNCENSORED LETTERS
to us. It is a Russian sailor who has been hit by several bullets. He lies unconscious at the bottom of the boat ; his clothes are covered with blood. One bullet has gone through his arm, a second right through the abdomen, a third has broken one of his legs. Nothing to be done for him ; and he dies at 12 o'clock without regaining consciousness.
12 o'clock. — Yenisher is destroyed. Enough shells have fallen to prevent the enemy from establishing itself there for some time. At about eight kilometres away, however, the fortifications of In Tepe, which are on the top of the hill behind the river In Tepe Asmak, are still standing, and continue to fire on Sedd-el-Bahr and the ships anchored at the entrance of the Dardanelles.
In Tepe constitutes the most important Turkish strong- hold in these parts. There is said to be a series of 3O5-mm. guns, and huge siege guns on railway lines which only emerge from concrete and armoured tunnels to crash down their shells on us and then disappear again. It is said that the German Admiral Souchon commands In Tepe. Our battleships opened fire on In Tepe as soon as it was light, but they have not silenced it. The Savoie is now also directing her guns on In Tepe.
Except for our artillerymen who remain near their guns, and the mechanics and stokers who are doubtless engaged in a heavy task in the engine-room, the rest of the men, sailors, fusiliers of the ordnance department, men from the kitchens, all the soldiers who have not gone ashore, mounted despatch riders, special stretcher bearers, drivers, are blocking up the passages, the decks and the bridges to obtain a good view of the spectacle in front of us.
They do not realise that they themselves are actors in the great drama. Leaning against the railings they watch with wide-open eyes, and show their admiration. They
THE LANDING AT KOUM KALEH 53
have lighted their pipes and cigarettes and smoke — quite happy.
I am astonished to observe that every spectator has his own field-glasses. From where did they all come ? They are of every kind of model and form. Then it occurred to me that many had been lent by sailors of the Savoie who had picked them up on long deck chairs during the crossings to and from America.
Animated conversations are being held. No precision in the details which go from group to group. One hears the most unexpected and incredible stories. But there is nobody who does not know and discuss the plans of the Commander-in Chief. They are contemptuous of the Turk, crack jokes on the Boche, and measure the chances of the Allies.
A well-placed shell enchants them. They applaud as at the theatre. The accent reveals that among these dilettantes, Toulon is largely represented. They are deter- mined not to be deprived of the spectacle for a single minute. If I ask a few men to help with the cleaning of certain parts of the ship or to do any other job, they im- mediately answer, " Impossible to leave their paste de combat!"
The establishment of a hospital on board the Savoie presented the greatest difficulties. It seemed an almost hopeless task in any case to prepare and make sanitary a transport in which thousands of men have been living crowded together for weeks. And when it had to be done in the middle of a battle, the difficulties can be imagined.
Everybody declares that the wounded can be attended to — after. There is no time just now, and all hands are required for other services. If some doctors are ready to second me, others think there is nothing to be done.
At half-past 8 I caught sight of a colleague who was
54 UNCENSORED LETTERS
only just up and was still in slippers. Another was assiduously taking photographs, and declared that every- thing was ready.
The autoclave ought to be at work without delay. We have to sterilise all the bedding, 500 sheets, and 2,000 towels. I am told that I can only have the stove specialist after 4 o'clock in the afternoon. He cannot leave the engine- room before. A soldier offers to replace him. I accept. When the specialist sees I am determined to manage without him, he appears.
I want the crew's quarters evacuated. The men can- not be disturbed : there are no orders for that — it is not possible.
It is exasperating. I open the portholes and say, " If in ten minutes a clearance is not begun everything shall be thrown into the sea."
Nearly all the cabins intended for wounded are still occupied by soldiers. I have them evacuated (by force when necessary), and place a guard over them. It is my orderlies who are obliged to empty them. One, for instance, has eight saddles in it ; another is filled with mail bags. All this material is heaped unflinchingly into one of the kitchens.
The hairdressing saloon makes a fine operating theatre. There are hot and cold water, a number of tip-up basins, shelves, and cupboards there. Even this room is only granted to me after diplomatic manoeuvres.
We can now operate without delay. Orderlies are filling it with sterilised sacks, baskets of bandages and drugs when our first wounded arrive. From this moment all pull themselves together ; and in the presence of realities surpass themselves.
We had soon quite a model hospital, which worked well and which called forth the congratulations of our chief.
THE LANDING AT KOUM KALEH 55
In a few hours we had treated 119 seriously wounded, many of whom needed a surgical operation.
I p.m. — We received confirmation from a French soldier (badly wounded, the lung perforated) that the landing was successful, but that one boat hit by a large shell has sunk with a certain number of Senegalese.
1.45. — The French torpedo-boat Trident comes to fetch munitions for our troops ashore. The Trident tows to land the boats containing the last contingent of troops. Two huge boxes containing artillery horses are also landed on Turkish soil. I am told that the first guns have already gone an hour before.
2. — A corporal bugler wounded in the leg returns to the Savoie. He says that the Turks are driven back beyond the village of Koum Kaleh, but that we have many wounded.
4. — Another convoy of wounded arrives. They are fourteen together, and the spectacle is already distressing. Among them is a lieutenant of the machine-gun section whose arm has been broken. All human miseries seem to be united in this little group of warriors lying at the bottom of the boats.
5. — The second section of artillery is sent off to Koum Kaleh. Three 75-mm. guns had been placed at the disposal of Colonel Ruef, the 3rd Battery of the 8th Artillery Regiment ; but one gun was not landed.
Meanwhile, on the European side we could witness a prodigious struggle maintained at all points. Enormous clouds of smoke rise here and there. Battleships thunder, boats are flying over the blue water coming from every side, transports laden with troops approach the shore. I see, at the same time, three hydroplanes in the air.
On the Asiatic side the battery of Oranieh suddenly
56 UNCENSORED LETTERS
wakes up. It seemed to be deserted, and its great gun, of which we could see the mouth, was supposed to be no longer dangerous. But just below, on the Koum Kaleh side, the Turks have succeeded in putting into action a small gun and firing on us.
The cruiser Jeanne d'Arc answers without delay. At the first shot a geyser of black smoke springs up from the foot of the Turkish gun. At the second it flies to pieces. A third, and silence is imposed for ever on the Great Turk and his insolent gunners.
Evening comes. Serene Nature invites us to peace. The light becomes soft and the landscape tints blend them- selves more harmoniously than ever. At the bottom of the Straits, towards the much-coveted road, the setting sun reveals Erenkeui, which was in shadow. It is an illumi- nated spot, like a large flower on the green wooded slopes. The guns have spared it.
In the scintillating blue sky, where glaucous greens and incandescent golds mingle, an enormous cloud rises over Koum Kaleh. It remains there till dark, continually changing its shape.
Is it an omen of glory or of death ? The convoys of wounded follow each other rapidly. From twilight of the 25th till the first rays of dawn the next day we are leaning over wounded in an atmosphere of blood, of groans, and of indescribable horrors. We do not stop for a single minute. When suffering is quieted, the infernal noise of firing returns to us from outside.
Will all these sacrifices be useless ? Can they hold till the morning, those of our regiment who are there so near us ? Hunted down by an enemy ten times superior, shot at from close range, flooded with machine-gun fire, our heroic fellows do not move behind their sand trenches. If the attacks are made in close formation — in German
THE LANDING AT KOUM KALEH 57
style — the 6th Colonial still remain immovable. Only the " 75 " £uns redouble their fire. The Turks are mown down in great numbers.
The ships send out flashlights as darkness sets in, and the spectacle is lighted up as by day.
The wounded still come in. They are mounted on the deck from the bottom of the boats, and form a long line of stretchers. We are able to put six wounded at a time on the big tables of the children's playroom of the Savoif. Sometimes not even a groan is to be heard ; the silence is impressive. Our fellows are admirable.
The wounds of this night are, nevertheless, frightful. A sergeant-major comes back to us only to die. His chest was crushed by shrapnel ; and for a moment we saw his heart, almost bare, still beating. There is a Senegalese with his head torn, a foot missing, and three fingers of a hand gone. Another black, waiting his turn on a chair, is asked, " Beaucoup malade ? " " Non, il y en a un peu ! " The doctor looks. Both legs have been torn off by a shell.
In the middle of the night I was called from the operating room on deck. It was to see a friend who had just been brought back wounded. He said he was cold, then swooned. He is going to die, his wound has bled profusely. But at last, after our united efforts, he regained consciousness. Firing never ceases. No words can express the anguish of this terrible night.
Your weary, but ever loving, HUSBAND.
CHAPTER VI
THE LANDING AT KOUM KALEH (ON SHORE)
April 29. MY DEAREST,
From the lips of our heroes I have now been able to piece together the connected story of what happened on shore in and about Koum Kaleh on the 25th and 26th, during which time I was kept busy on board the Savoie doing my best for the suffering and binding up their terrible wounds. I send you this so that in conjunction with the diary of my day on the Savoie you may gain a clearer idea of their imperishable bravery.
THE LAND BATTLE OF APRIL 25 — 26
The disembarkation at Koum Kaleh, on the Asiatic coast of the Dardanelles, was only an episode in the vast Anglo-French undertaking from April 25 onwards on the Gallipoli Peninsula. But as a simple demonstration it was not without its usefulness and its glory.
Although the English marines had already destroyed the fortifications of Koum Kaleh, on the Asiatic shore, and of Oranieh, the enemy might have succeeded in bringing up field artillery and directing under the shelter of these positions a very annoying fire against the disembarkation on the European side.
It was suggested for us that we reduce the casemated
THE LANDING AT KOUM KALEH 59
and shell-proof fortress of In Tepe by ranging up our cannon at Yenisher. This intention was not carried out. Our troops, though in possession of Koum Kaleh, did not climb the heights of Yenisher.
After having held considerable forces in check and carried off 600 Turks as prisoners, we re-embarked on the night of April 26, according to the plan determined on beforehand.
This expedition to Koum Kaleh, which I now purpose to set out in detail, was confined to the 6th Mixed Colonial Regiment. It was a single body of new forma- tion, composed of one battalion of white men and two of black.
The greater part of the Europeans consisted of a fine body of young recruits from Lyon. The Senegalese comprised a great number of veterans who had proved their worth in Morocco ; then at the front in Flanders, at Ypres and Dixmude. They came from the garrisons of Nice and Mentone, where, during the severity of the winter season, we are obliged to keep our black troops in reserve.
The officers were worthy of such soldiers. They were for the most part colonial officers. In command of them was Lieutenant-Colonel Nogues, already known for his pacification of the Ivory Coast.
To this 6th Colonial Regiment was attached a battery of four pieces of artillery " 75 " guns of the 8th Regi- ment, formerly at Nancy, and a company of engineers of the 1st Division. One section of machine-guns of the 4th Regiment of "Chasseurs d'Afrique" supported our regular sections of the 6th Colonial.
The Service de Sante of the expedition comprised a personnel of twenty-one doctors, a chemist, two adminis- trative officers, distributed among the different corps and
60 UNCENSORED LETTERS
connected with the divisional ambulance. The three boats Savoie, Finh Long and Ceylon prepared to take charge of the wounded.
The theatre of operations is Homer's Troad. Koum Kaleh is on the left bank of the Scamander (Mendereh), where Agamemnon's thousand ships were anchored. Yenisher is the ancient Sigeum. Straight in front rises the august profile of the hill called the " Tomb of Achilles."
Troy lies in the plain. For thirty centuries the country- side has kept its immortal beauty. Mount Ida, covered with snow, seems still to be awaiting the coming of a God.
The troops were transported from Lemnos during the night April 24 — 25 in the boats as follows : In the auxiliary cruiser Savoie, the staff and the ist Battalion ; on the State transport Vinh Long, the 3rd Battalion ; on the steamer Carthage, the 2nd Battalion. The artillery was on the Theodore Mante, and the landing stores on the Ceylon. The troops were ready to disembark at daybreak.
The squadron specially charged to protect the opera- tions were commanded by Admiral Guepratte. It con- sisted of the Jaureguiberry, the Henri IF., the Jeanne d'Arc, the Askold, the Latouche Treville, some torpedo- boats for the high seas like the Poignard, some English destroyers, some barges, and some mine-sweepers.
In consequence of certain misunderstandings, some of the warships did not arrive in time, and others, like the Finh Long, did not anchor at their assigned post. There was delay in the preparation of the artillery.
Near us the first cannon shots were fired at 5.30 a.m. by the Askold, and at 6 by the Jeanne d'Arc on Koum Kaleh and Yenisher. The Henri IF. and the Jauregui- berry, anchored further to the north towards the entrance to the Dardanelles, bombarded In Tepe and the neigh- bouring heights.
THE LANDING AT KOUM KALEH 61
The men of the 6th Colonial were in their ordinary field costume of great-coat and kepi. The Senegalese wore a dark-blue great-coat, the red " chechia " covered with blue cotton material. The uniform of the Europeans was a light blue, in quite good condition and new. Everyone had taken off his tunic and found the great-coat with the corners turned up sufficient.
At 6 o'clock the men, with knapsacks on their backs, crowded on the decks, and only awaited the order to get on board the boats which were ranged along the ship sides.
It was only at 8.30 that the first detachment left the Vinh Long. It consisted of the staff of the 3rd Battalion, the loth Company, and the machine-gun section. The boats were towed by a steam cutter of the Russian cruiser Askold under the direction of one of its officers.
The cutter began to manoeuvre to get alongside the great quay which was in front of the port on the west side ; but Commandant Nibaudeau saw immediately that this ruined wharf, which had no landing stage, would be difficult to mount; and, moreover, it was under the fire of the hostile musketry. It would be better to get a footing at the south-west extremity of the fort on a beach pro- vided besides with a wooden jetty. The Russian officer insisted, however, on making straight for the quay.
The ship's boats, thrown into disorder by the current, got entangled among the quay pillars, whilst a sharp fire was directed on them from the shore. The machine-gun section replied. A shell fell into the machine-gun boat and sank it. Nibaudeau begged the Russian officer to steer them towards the beach on the southern side ; but the manoeuvre seemed too slow to Captain Brison and Lieutenant Molinier, who threw themselves into the water. They were carried by the stream on to the wooden jetty. The native troops followed their chief, and, for the most
62 UNCENSORED LETTERS
part, gained the shore. The situation of the soldiers remaining on board became intolerable. They were tran- shipped on to another boat which put them ashore.
The other convoys transported unhindered their crowd of Colonial and Senegalese soldiers in boats towed in single file. There were some accidents. A boat containing a dozen Senegalese turned upside down alongside the Savoie. The same thing happened near the Carthage, where a corporal and several African soldiers were drowned.
However the operation was on the whole remarkably successful.
Whilst the landing was going on the enemy artillery was not idle. The Savoie and the Finh Long were particularly aimed at. German aeroplanes dropped their bombs, which fell all around the Savoie.
It was on the south of the old fort, between the beach and the ramparts, that the Colonials got on shore. From there it was necessary to get right through the fort, which was said to have been mined by the enemy.
Captain Brison dashed ahead to scale the wall through the breaches caused S_f the cannon. In consequence of his wound he had thrown off his tunic, and rushed on in his shirt-sleeves and with bare head. As the weather was cool, he had over his shoulders a soldier's coat. Lieutenant Bonavita, cane in hand, followed his chief.
The fort was not occupied, but the artillery and machine- guns of the Turkish infantry at the south of the village spread death in our ranks. One machine-gun situated in a mill was fortunately destroyed by the cannon of the fleet.
The ancient fortress of Koum Kaleh, in spite of its ruined condition and its recent wreckage, retained an imposing appearance. It consisted of an enormous mass of stone and earth, still filled with arms and munitions. Modern
THE LANDING AT KOUM KALEH 63
Naval batteries, dynamited by the English, still remained, surrounded by their shells.
Captain Brison's company crossed the fortress rapidly, and found itself at the entry of the village. It was then that Lieutenant Bonavita, marching in front of his section, was struck by a ball which killed him on the spot.
The village of Koum Kaleh, bombarded by the English fleet in February, presented the familiar appearance of towns which have been sacked. On each side of the main street, which opened on the east gate of the castle, houses — perhaps some hundred — stand gutted, with only frag- ments of wall, desolate and in ruins.
Some had preserved signs of their former occupation. A watchmaker's shop still had its signboard flapping in the wind, and a display of cuckoo-clocks.
Over this necropolis two birds kept watch — two storks, probably native to the place, that no noise of battles disturbed. They remained perched on a roof during the quarrel between France and Turkey. But before the end of the day it seems that one of them was killed.
At half-past 10 the enemy, who had lain in ambush in the village, fled before Brison's bayonets. Meanwhile two companies of the battalion " Chabbert," which had just landed, turn the fort on the west side. About II o'clock the battalion " Nibaudeau " arrived at the south outskirts of the village after having completely carried all before it.
Thereon the organised defence of the position began, resting on the left on the river Mendereh (Scamander). The company " Lejeune " formed the left wing, whilst the company " Blanchard " and certain companies of the battalion " Simonin " was spread out in front of Oranieh between the village and the sea. The firing at this moment increased in intensity. There were very many wounded.
64 UNCENSORED LETTERS
At half-past I p.m. the first piece of artillery was dis- embarked. The two rafts conveying the horses followed without delay. It was then that the Trident came along- side the Savoie and the Fink Long to fetch munitions and tow in the last file of boats, eight in number, containing the last units of the 6th Regiment.
Of four pieces of "75 " placed at the disposition of Colonel Ruef only three were disembarked. One piece, placed in reserve, was not used. The other two were marvellously successful.
The battalion " Chabbert " attempted to get forward on the right towards Oranieh, but it met with a stern resistance on the part of a body of the enemy entrenched in the cemetery. At 2.30 the order was given to carry the cemetery. Companies " Lejeune " and " Distel " were strengthened by two sections of machine-guns. One piece of artillery was brought forward to the front on the shoulders of the men, and began its work.
The fire was well directed ; the tombstones were quickly demolished, but in their deep trenches the Turks did not seem to suffer much. When the preparation by the artil- lery seemed sufficient the Company "Lejeune" advanced. It was obliged to defile, platoon by platoon, because of the narrowness of the ground, which between the lake and the river Mendereh is not more than 100 metres wide.
A terrible fusillade began. The company " Distel " followed the company " Lejeune " and held the right. But no sooner were the wire entanglements passed than the leading company, " Lejeune," on a level with the lake, suffered serious losses.
The musketry fire from the cemetery did not slacken ; the enemy's range was excellent. A fusillade coming from the left bank of the Mendereh took us by surprise on
THE LANDING AT KOUM KALEH 65
our flank. We had to stay where we were for the time being, always replying as best we could.
At that moment Lieutenant Barren was caught by a ball in the abdomen. Finding himself mortally wounded, he made no complaint and courageously awaited the end. His agony was prolonged and no one could abate his suffering or relieve it.
When night came he was buried where he lay. Then the units of the company " Lejeune," who were in a critical position, retired on their centre.
Darkness was coming on. It was necessary to establish ourselves firmly on the ground gained. The enemy, superior in number, was, we learned, expecting reinforce- ments. Since 2 o'clock, to the south of Yenisher a column, a kilometre long, had been observed marching on that town.
At 6 o'clock the 2nd and 3rd Battalions, with two sections of machine-guns and one" 75," occupied the east and south-east quarters. The 1st Battalion and two sec- tions of machine-guns occupied the south quarter up to the sea. The 7th Company was placed in general reserve ; the 6th in the old castle. These two units had entrusted to them the important duty of bringing up supplies — a task rendered more arduous by the wide extent of the front and the sandy beach.
The Chief of the Expedition requested the naval forces to guard the flank on the south-south-east with artillery and flash-lights during the night. The barbed wire, with which Colonel Nogues was amply provided, was placed before our lines. The east and south-east fronts of the village had been barricaded by the engineers and lined with the company held in general reserve. There was also a battery of artillery to break down the entanglements between the lake and the Mendereh.
Our dispositions had not been completed at 8.30, when
66 UNCENSORED LETTERS
the Turks flung themselves impetuously against us. The attack, very vehement, was driven home, and, at certain points (as against the company " de Queral ") by a large body of men.
Some came creeping, others in full view, with furious firing. All, when they reached the trenches, charged with the bayonet. Our line held together. The " 75 " gun stopped the assault, and inflicted considerable losses. Everywhere bayonet met bayonet.
On our left the trenches were abandoned before the mounting wave of the Turks ; but a few moments after- wards they were brilliantly reoccupied at the point of the bayonet. The enemy hesitated. A wonderful calm en- sued. We took advantage of it to place our entanglements, supplementing the barbed wire. As we have no poles, to fix them in the ground, we make use of the hundreds of dead bodies lying in front of us.
Two sections of the supporting troops are sent to the company " de Queral," which has experienced the greatest loss. Other reserve forces succeed in satisfying all the demands for stores, but they are worn out.
The number of the wounded is already great. They are got together at the dressing station situated at the south-east angle of the old castle, and transported one after another by steam-launches to the Savoie.
It was between 1 1 o'clock and noon that we received on the Savoie the first wounded. Others followed without pause. There were in all on the first day 119 men.
It was especially after 8 o'clock that they poured in. From then till 6 o'clock in the morning all the doctors had their hands full — no pause in the operations and dressings.
The Vinh Long, like the Savoie, received a great number. This vessel, being a transport of the Navy, had good hospital
THE LANDING AT KOUM KALEH 67
accommodation. The doctor there with the means at his disposal was able to manage admirably.
It was not the same with the Savoit, where every- thing had to be created. It was a serious task to trans- form such a vessel into a hospital in a few hours while the fighting was going on. Only half the berths were empty after the disembarkation of the troops. The sailors' sleeping quarters were requisitioned, but it was also neces- sary to displace all the marines.
In spite of every sort of difficulty, by midday we had arranged 200 beds and 30x3 hammocks which we had steri- lised, an operating theatre in what was formerly the shaving saloon, where six wounded men could be operated upon or have their wounds dressed at the same time.
All the serviceable linen on board — sheets, napkins, had been sterilised. The wounded, laid on stretchers, which were left in the boats, were hoisted on board by means of baskets.
The Savoif had drawn near to Koum Kaleh to facilitate the work of supplying reinforcements. The noise of the fusillade was distinctly heard ; and we could hear also that coming from the European side of the peninsula, but the tone was different.
The cannon of the fleet did not cease firing. Their intermittent salvos joined their roar to the sharper sound of the musketry in the counter-attacks. The furious struggle, the tremendous expenditure of fighting strength the horror of the strife, continued all night. At 2.30, at 3.30, at 4 in the morning the enemy attacked impetuously. During the night a million cartridges were burnt.
The morning rose on a memorable scene. Before us corpses were piled up fora space of 20010400 metres along the front. The long stretch of broken ground was coloured red with blood.
68 UNCENSORED LETTERS
The first rays of the sun flashed on the steel of arms abandoned all around. The soldiers of the 6th Colonial could then understand the excellence of their deeds. The regiment had added a page to history of which France might well be proud.
About 6 o'clock (April 26) the attack on the cemetery was to have been delivered, but for some unknown reason there was a delay. At 7 o'clock a fresh attack seemed to be in preparation from the cemetery. As a matter of fact Turks came out from their trenches with their arms in their hands, but they waved at the same time white handkerchiefs and flags. Suspecting a ruse common enough at other fronts, the Colonel ordered the firing to be kept up.
Notwithstanding this, some 60 to 70 Turks left the trench, threw down their weapons and raised their arms above their heads. The firing was stopped and the prisoners led into our lines. Following their example, other Turks quitted their trenches and came forward with many gestures of amity, without, however, raising their arms.
In the confusion some shots were fired on either side, but Turkish officers quickly intervened and gave the signal " Cease firing ! " over and over again. As their first groups showed that it was their real intention to surrender, the Colonel gave the order to cease fire. They delivered up their arms to our Colonial infantry.
Behind them followed numerous other groups of Turks, but when they came within our lines they refused to lay down their arms. We tried to explain. The interpreters failed to make themselves understood.
Captain Roeckel of the reserve then came forward, and of his own accord offered to go and talk the matter over with the chief commandant of the Turkish forces. He
THE LANDING AT KOUM KALEH 69
spoke Arabic quite well. However, he took with him the soldier Langlois as an interpreter. Both were conducted to the cemetery, where a Turkish officer of high rank was standing.
The confusion in our own lines rapidly grew worse, because by the side of the Turks who agreed to surrender there were many others who refused to deliver up their arms, and were even not disinclined to take those of our men. Profiting by the disorder, some Turks slipped into the village and barricaded themselves in the houses. To begin to fire again on the dissentients seemed a matter of urgency, but that would have been to abandon our two representatives to their fate, and perhaps to deprive us of the last arrangement possible.
While this was going on, General d'Amade arrived at the Chateau d'Asie. He gave the order to form our lines at all hazards, and consequently to begin firing again. Captain Roeckel, accompanied by two Turkish officers and two soldiers, coming back, made signs not to fire. He waved his k6pi. At the first salvos Captain Roeckel was taken quickly back towards the Turkish lines, " hands up." The enemy did not offer any retaliation against this officer, whose loyal conduct was beyond suspicion. He was held prisoner.
In the ensuing scuffle a section of machine-guns of the 3rd Company fell by surprise into the hands of the enemy. A very serious effort was made to get it back, but sharp- shooters ambuscaded in the houses of the village caused us great losses. Captains de Queral and Distel were mortally wounded. A " 75 " gun swept away everything that stood upright and at length we remained masters of the field. The Turks ran in every direction. Next we had to dislodge some 80 to 100 men who were concealed in the ruins of the village. One after another the houses
70 UNCENSORED LETTERS
were surrounded. In a cellar a little grey ass was found which had been let down there by some device or other.
The Turks sold their lives dearly. There was one house where a small number were entrenched, which could not be silenced. Cannon had to be brought up. A " 75 " gun shelled the place, but during the storm of shells the besieged men continued to fire. Here Captain Ferrero, commandant of engineers, was killed. His colleague, Lieutenant Lefort, was dragged into a house and dis- appeared. Elsewhere calm settled over the whole line till II o'clock a.m.
During the the recapture of the village a captain and eight men were taken prisoners. This officer, who was a German, spoke French quite well. He was asked what had become of Lieutenant Lefort. It was generally believed that he had been tortured and hung.
Colonel Nogues questioned the prisoners one after the other. No one could give any information about him. Several said it was no use looking for him. A German prisoner was fastened to a stake. His life was promised him if he would say what had become of our comrade. After a short time he was delivered over to a platoon for execution.
The Colonials, who had suffered much in this new affair of the village, and who believed their adversaries were act- ing in bad faith, excitedly surrounded the prisoners. Already shining blades were flashing from their scabbards. Some of the Senegalese stamped with their feet and gesti- culated furiously. Stray shots were let fly.
At this critical moment Colonel Nogues used his great authority over the native troops to calm them. For all that, they demanded immediate execution — a course in full accord with all the laws of war after sentence delivered.
Since dawn (May 26) the warships had been engaged in the bombardment of In Tepe. They had also rained a
THE LANDING AT KOUM KALEH 71
great number of projectiles on the ruins of Yenisher, and directed attacks on the reinforcements coming by different routes to the succour of Koum Kaleh. The Savoit and the Askold fired principally against the Turkish troops entrenched along the Mendereh and in the cemetery.
At 2 o'clock, after some very fortunate shots from the Savoif and the " 75 " guns it became impossible for them to hold the trenches in the cemetery and we saw the Turks waving their white flags. We took 600 prisoners.
The brave 6th Colonial had engaged four Turkish regiments commanded by German officers and field artillery. The day had turned out exceedingly well for our arms, since we had succeeded in landing in full force, taken Koum Kaleh, and gained a considerable advantage over an enemy in entrenched positions and superior in number.
The Turks left 2,000 dead on the field and surrendered to us a whole battalion.
At 7 Colonel Ruef gave the order for re-embarkation. Very strict arrangements had been made to avoid any sort of surprise, but the enemy were too dispirited, and did not trouble us. Not one rifle was fired ; but the bat- teries of In Tepe dropped some shells on the shore whilst the troops and stores were being got together.
It was by one of these that Lieutenant-Colonel Nogues was wounded in the arm, all about him were badly hurt. Lieutenant Weingling lost his head and was cut to pieces ; the secretaries, the orderlies, the messengers (" agents de liaison ") had a great number of dead and wounded.
Lieutenant de Chevigny and the Surgeon-MajorLossouarn were flung into the air and bruised. They sustained a bad nervous shock.
A curious phenomenon took place among some men who were lying with their backs against the wall of the old
72 UNCENSORED LETTERS
castle waiting their turn to embark. The sudden crumbling of the stones caused it to fall and break their skulls. There they were, stretched alongside one another in tragic attitudes.
Colonel Nogues' orderly, a very brave Senegalese attached for a long time to his master, was seriously injured. He had in his hand a box of eggs which was blown to frag- ments and a rug which doubtless underwent a like fate. Almost fainting from loss of blood, the faithful servant was only intent on recovering the rug.
The embarkation went on in the most orderly manner. As soon as the batteries of In Tepe entered into action the ships of our squadron replied. They approached nearer shore whilst the transports changed their anchorage to get down to Koum Kaleh to re-embark the troops.
The Poignard had brought to the Savoie its share of prisoners. They were Mussulman Turks — tall men, and with a determined expression. They seemed very tired. Their uniform of khaki colour looked in very good con- dition. There were very few Christians among them and the medical inspection showed that they bore traces of blows.
The Koum Kaleh affair cost us 167 dead, 459 wounded, and 116 missing, 742 men bors de combat, out of our full force. The wounded received every care on the Savoie, the Finh Long, and the Ceylon. Later they were trans- ported on to the hospital ship Duguay-Trouin, which set out immediately for Alexandria.
The Koum Kaleh landing was a small but creditable episode for our arms, and reflected favourably on the land and sea forces which took part and on the chiefs who were in command. Among the heroic annals of the French and the English in the Dardanelles it deserves an honourable place.
THK FRENCH AUXILIARY CRUISER " SAVOIK," HEKORK KOUM K AM II.
WOUNDED BEING HOISTED ON HOARD THE "SAVOIE.
CHAPTER VII
SEDD-EL-BAHR
April 29. MY DEAREST WIFE,
We have been waiting to go ashore on the European side since n o'clock last night. After lunch (the Colonel stood us champagne) Colonel Ruef and his staff go ashore. Colonel Nogues and staff of our regiment and a few men landed at 3 p.m.
We passed the Cornwallis, which was bombarding over our heads. Krithia was in flames. Columns of smoke kilometres long hid the sky on one side.
We approached a small boat which is up against what the Tommies call " the horse of Troy." This is the River Clydt, of Glasgow, which was run ashore to make a landing stage. I cross "the horse of Troy," and I step on the sacred Turkish soil. Digging has begun on the left where the English are sleeping.
A great deal of movement, many troops, tents, horses, artillery. Human detritus of every kind. The Chateau d'Europe is in ruins. An enemy aeroplane has just dropped four or five bombs on the camp.
We return to the Savoif. Krithia is burning. Shells from In Tepe are falling near the camp of the 4th Colonial.
April 30.
" Marmites " are falling on the French camp at Sedd-el- Bahr. Yesterday aviatiks directed the enemy's fire. We
74 UNCENSORED LETTERS
can see them burst in the midst of this medley of men and material. They are coming from In Tepe (8 a.m.). The ships try to silence them, Cornwallis, Jaureguibery, Henri IV. An exciting duel, magnificent light. At 10.30 an aeroplane of burs arrives. At last ! ... In Tepe continues to fire.
At 11.30 Admiral Guepratte passes in front of us in a boat from the Henri IV . We salute him.
At I o'clock the Henri IV., which was at 1,000 yards to our left, changes her anchorage and passes between us and the Yenisher coast. We can see that she has been hit. At 2 o'clock we hear that she has been hit six times by the In Tepe batteries. One shell fell on the bridge ; the captain and six officers were wounded. In all there are two dead and twelve wounded.
At 2.30 we received our orders to go ashore. At 3 we left the Savoie. We said good-bye to Captain Tourrette. Half an hour later we were in the much- bombarded Sedd-el-Bahr Bay. Work is going on steadily. There are a great many troops, much material, and a field hospital. I photograph one of the holes made by a " marmite." I visit the director of the Service de Sante.
We go straight on, mounting the semi-circular hills which form an arena where so much heroism was displayed that the place will be for ever immortal. We climb up the paths which cross the town of Sedd-el-Bahr. The sappers are repairing them. Artillery horses and men are engaged on the work.
Houses are burst open, many are in atoms. There is not a corner that has escaped shells and bullets. We find, however, a little orchard intact. There are already five or six tents there. A cemetery is destroyed, also a mosque close to it.
SEDD-EL-BAHR 75
Nature remains beautiful and serene. The weather is delicious. Flowers everywhere where man has not destroyed them. We arrive on the crest of the plateau which dominates the bay where the landings took place in spite of a determined resistance.
From here one can see everything. In this clear Eastern atmosphere it is easy to distinguish each man, each horse. The ships make an ideal target, and the Rivfr Clyde the best of all. The great ruined castle, whiter than ever from the breaches, fills one whole side of the horizon. At the foot, under its walls, the staff of General d'Amade is camping.
We are led along roads full of flowers and bordered with trees, through very pretty narrow lanes, to our post. It is in a grove of young olive trees. Digging begins immediately, and a shelter is made for me. A few " marmites " fall. Fusillade and cannonade in front. A hole one yard deep is dug and my camp-bed placed in it. There is a stone wall on one side, and over the hole tree trunks and branches. We dine in absolute dark- ness, with shells flying over our heads. A ferocious " 75 " behind us fires and fires. Sharp and disagreeable noise.
After having established the dressing station I go to bed. It is very cold. An enormous red moon rises above Morto Bay. For a time all is quiet, and a night bird begins to sing.
Then suddenly shouts from all sides : " Fire, fire, rapid fire " ; for as there is not yet a telephone orders must be passed from mouth to mouth. This death clamour is terrifying. The " 75 " obeys. It is a group of Turks who are flying, and the " 75 " mows them down as they go.
I am waked many times in the night by this rapid fire of the " 75." All night fusillade attacks, counter-attacks at some 100 metres from us. We all keep calm.
76 UNCENSORED LETTERS
May i.
Up at 4 o'clock. The " 75 " was still firing behind us ; then it gradually ceased. The cannonade seemed further off. At intervals there were broadsides from the ships.
I got up rather frozen, but quite well. Another dug- out has been made for me. It is a ditch two and a half yards long by one yard deep. A royal tomb — rather damp at the bottom, for there is water here. A floor was made of wooden planks from a room in the village near Sedd- el-Bahr. On the four sides it is lined with stones; branches and earth over the top. There is a staircase of two steps. A lot of my good fellows worked at arranging my house; and when finished they placed at the door a bunch of poppies and daisies. I was quite touched.
I went for a walk on either side to locate my position. On the right where a steep cliff goes down to the sea (Morto Bay) are lines of defence, trenches, and huge holes made by " marmites." Pieces of lead everywhere in the fields.
Below towards the sea is a cypress wood, giving shade and perfumed with thyme. It is a Turkish cemetery — a place of peace. Stone monuments. A battery of " 75 " guns is camped there. I talked for a few minutes with Commandant Holtzapfel, then with his doctor.
I returned at 6 o'clock by the big hollow road where a Turkish regiment was installed. They fled, leaving all their belongings behind, — tents, clothes, sacks (which have been searched and their contents scattered), cartridges, shells, grenades, cases, biscuits, papers, glasses, drinking bottles, brass basins with brass rings.
Between 9 p.m. and II p.m. cannonade, fusillade. Our " 75 " fired over our heads, while In Tepe from one side and Achi Baba in a direct line tried to silence them. The English battery to our left has just been relieved (at this hour).
Colonel Ruef 's horse has been killed. When a shell comes
SEDD-EL-BAHR 77
one throws oneself on the ground, till, whistling, it passes. During the night furious attacks on the 4th Colonial, Metropolitan, and the Zouaves near Morto Bay.
May 2.
The noise died down. We had the advantage. I got up at daybreak, stiff, tired, headachy, but ready for the day's work all the same.
I went to the dressing station, then on to the plateau, where fighting had been in progress. I took an epaulette from a Turkish captain. Many dead. Horrible wounds. Bayonets used. Magnificent men, the Turks as well as ours. Turks, whites, blacks were all mixed up. Men of the 1 75th, 6th, 4th, and Zouaves.
I saw General Masnou and Colonel Nogues, who will be promoted to be commander of a brigade. I arranged the service at the dressing station. Returned to our original camp at 9.30. I ate bully beef, an orange, no wine or coffee. Afterwards I slept. It was divine. I saw Commandant Tourrette and Dr. Rouquet of the Savoie, which starts to-morrow for France. They have promised to give you news of me, and the Turkish epaulette.
M. Huguenin was found dead, struck by many bullets. I went to the staff officers' camp. Nibaudeau or Simonin will command the 6th Regiment. The 1 75th is com- manded by a lieutenant, the only surviving officer. Not a single officer of the engineers remains.
Our " 75 's " and a few " 65 " mountain guns began to fire again intermittently. Towards 8 o'clock rapid firing, always increasing in intensity. Never have I witnessed such horrible, distressing scenes of anguish.
The day after Koum Kaleh I wrote you at length. But the shortest notes have the best chance of getting
78 UNCENSORED LETTERS
through. Some hours before the attack I received your letter, and it was the best loved thing in the world.
JOE.
May 3. MY DEAR WIFE,
After the fight of Koum Kaleh we landed on the Gallipoli Peninsula, and since then there has been fighting con- tinually. It is a very deadly campaign. The night of the ist to 2nd of May was one of great anxiety, my regiment constantly charged with the bayonet ; and it is only due to our brave soldiers that we were able to hold our own.
A fusillade continued along the whole line. An unin- terrupted cannonade. Shells fell in our camp. We felt that all was at stake.
At 2 o'clock the 6th Colonial was sent for. It left at 4 o'clock. Would it be in time ? Fearful din.
At daybreak I went towards the English side. They were shaving, washing, eating, imperturbable under fire. My dressing station, which was at the angle of the camp and where I was receiving a great many wounded, was too far off. I was there with Dr. Neel and Dr. Riffat, my secretary Borella, and Korka. It had to be moved forward.
It was difficult to find a site where our wounded would be in safety from bullets and shells and yet not too far from the firing line. I followed the Morto Bay road and met a number of wounded — Lieutenant Petiot mor- tally wounded. I looked after and encouraged him.
We heard that Commandant Chabbert had been killed. The battle was raging. I went further forward. Artil- lery cases, dead men, dead horses, police, doctors, above all guns which thundered and deafened us.
SEDD-EL-BAHR 79
I followed the viaduct. Near the front, under the last arch, General d'Amade was leaning over the wounded. He did not speak.
I wanted to establish my dressing station at the northern end of the viaduct road, but the English were cooking and eating there, just as if they were having a picnic. I tried on the right, where there was a better place still. It should be established at the base of Hill 200.
A crowd of wounded arrived — fearful sights. General d'Amade came. Morphine injections to all. Sent them to the rear on stretcher carriages and mule basket chairs. After 1.30 I worked near the viaduct. At 5 o'clock, after going to the hospital, I returned, after having eaten a piece of bully beef — same meal as this morning. I established myself again near the bridge. At nightfall there was a fearful cannonade. I went for some rest to the telephonists' trench. I slept sitting, my grey rug over my shoulders. I was very thirsty. The water is almost salt, and makes one thirsty.
During the night from the 2nd to 3rd May one regiment alone spent 40,000 cartridges. We heard that if the 6th Regiment (my own) had not gone to the help of the 4th during the night of 1st to 2nd the French Expeditionary Force would have been swept into the sea.
May 4.
One could follow in the distance all the phases of the fight. Once our lines weakened for a moment. A charge, a counter-attack in a torrent of blood. During the night a hail of shells, cries, deafening noises ; and above all the " 75*8 " continued to fire furiously.
Nibaudeau came to my hut in the night, as it is better protected. At 4 o'clock he was called for, and went. There was panic for a moment on the road. A man was
8o UNCENSORED LETTERS
carrying the breech of a cannon. The flag must be saved. . . .
I went to the front about 4 o'clock. I went to the dressing station and all along the line. I lunched with Colonel Nogues ; came back for a siesta in my dug-out. But I could not sleep ; it was impossible. The " 75 " began again, then the " 120."
I went to the beach, where shells were still falling con- tinually. Fountains of earth, fountains of water. Nine horses killed, two men. The night was pretty quiet. I slept at the camp. No serious attacks, few wounded.
Your JOE.
May 5. MY DEAREST WIFE,
I have written you direct by the medium of the auxi- liary cruiser Savoie, which returns to France to get troops. It is safer. Your letters arrive very irregularly. Doubtless the English papers keep you informed about our operations.
We are advancing slowly, the English on the west, and ourselves on the east, mounting northwards towards Constantinople. The fighting is very violent and the re- sistance serious.
We have lost, among others, Captain Blanchard and Major Chabbert. When I saw Blanchard he was already dead-cold. He had said so often that I should save him if he were wounded. At Koum Kaleh a bullet had glanced off the carotid, and I prescribed eight or ten days' rest for him. He was not cured. He could have escaped this fresh butchery ; but he wanted to be there. He refused to remain behind while the fighting was so hard for the others, and he fell, struck by a Turkish bullet. His first bandage was still round his neck. The other was bathed
A VIEW OK THE "RIVER CLYDE" AND THE CAMP TAKEN FROM THE WEST PLATFORM OF SEDU-EL-BAHR CASTLB.
THE RUNS OF SEDD-EL-BAHR AND THE CASTLE OF EUROPE.
BRITISH TROOPS RESTING. AUSTRALIAN NEIGHBOURS TO THE FRENCH TROOrS NEAR SEDD-EI.-BAHR.
LIFE HAS BEGUN AGAIN AROUND THE NEWLY-MADE GRAVES.
SEDD-EL-BAHR 81
with blood. It is in the stomach this time — a bullet. He suffered for a few minutes, spoke; then sleep overcame him. He died without regaining consciousness.
Another officer you knew at Haiphong, Lieutenant Mangin, came alone to the dressing station. He was holding his arm. His face was soiled with thick clotted blood. He had a wound in the nose, which was cut in two. His elbow was shattered. He was stoical, almost happy to be getting out of it so lightly.
Nature here is so beautiful ; the light so pure. It is in a field of marguerites and poppies that the shells are falling, and in which the " marmites " are digging immense holes.
The terrific din begins at nightfall. Yesterday evening it was the Queen Elizabeth which began the shelling. Every shot was like a tremendous thunder-clap repeated in numberless echoes. It is a rain of shells, a noise of hell, flashes of fire.
When this does not cease for a single minute the whole night you can imagine in what a state one is.
We were shelled the other evening from three different directions. In my underground shelter I did not count for more than the most humble worm. Man has imagined horrors which far surpass the cataclysms of Nature.
If you could guess or imagine the atmosphere in which we live ! It is such complete novelty. I adapt myself to everything.
May 5.
The graves of Lieutenant Huguenin and Captain Blan- chard are marked. There are already other cemeteries for our regiment. That of the I75th Regiment is a little further on, with no special boundary. Before leaving the graves I see a Senegalese bring some flowers (poppies) ; he puts them down just on Blanchard's grave.
82 UNCENSORED LETTERS
I imagine the suffering of their loved ones ; and I move away so that these men may not see my tears. Around the graves there is life, movement, all the disorder of troops who are going to fight — some cooking, others sleep- ing, others mending their clothes, talking or cleaning their rifles. I lunch with the Colonel in the midst of the camp.
I photographed Captain Blanchard's grave. After lunch, a torrid heat (this morning we were freezing), I rode back across the plain. Enormous holes from shells ; sacks, rugs, rifles in deserted trenches. There are also untouched corners where one's vision is rested by the sight of a field of daisies and poppies.
On arriving at the camp I saw a German aviatik over a machine gun. A "75 " was firing at it but without success. A biplane drove it off. It is said that three new Turkish regiments with fresh artillery will attack us to-night.
But we shall be ready for them, and reinforcements are arriving at last. A Senegalese battalion came this morning from Alexandria. To-night a regiment is arriving ! On the yth another !
Siesta at the camp. Respite from the " 75 " and all other guns from I till 4 p.m. I heard, while dining with Colonel Nogues, Captain Malafosse, and Captain Vermersch, that there will be a general attack at n o'clock to- morrow.
I have received your letter of the nth April from Hamp- stead. I will send you all my pay, perhaps by Clervoix. I think that is the safest way.
I still hope to have you to myself again. I will sur- round you with tenderness, and all our days will be happy together. Your JOE.
My love to your family. You don't tell me of your sister. How is she ?
SEDD-EL-BAHR 83
May 6. DEAREST WIFE,
At 9 o'clock, after having put all in order, I left the camp on horseback. My new second horse " Merle," ridden by my new groom Clerc, fell from a bridge, his legs in the air, and hurt himself. My own horse took half an hour to make up his mind to cross the bridge. After that we had to go along the beach, which is continually bombarded. . . . Lunch with Colonel Nogues. At 1 1 o'clock the attack.
I went to the dressing station, and a few minutes later a long line of wounded began to arrive. It went on unin- terruptedly till 2 o'clock the next morning. Fusillade, cannonade, wounded.
Sometimes they were very brave, and watched the doctors' movements without a gesture. Some felt them- selves die. Blood, sufferings, cries, blood, groans. We bent over all these horrors, and tried to do something. There was a dirty, penetrating dust which the wind sent into every corner and into the open wounds.
I went on to the battlefield. There were soldiers hiding in the trenches. One could hardly see them, so great was the disorder around. English guns, French guns, stretcher-bearers with wounded. And it went on and on. One's imagination can suggest nothing like the reality. I could wish that there was no remembrance in my brain of those hours of blood and of death.
Weak minds were upset. Few were able to keep a real and immediate notion of things. There is a physi- cal exaltation which deforms and obscures everything and makes one incapable of reasoning.
At nightfall my hands were still sticky with blood and antiseptics. I ate half a tin of bully beef, biscuits and an orange, and drank some wine. The wounded continued to come in. There was no rest. We were all tired out
84 UNCENSORED LETTERS
and looked like ghosts, dirty, horrid, excited. All the same, when we came together, the same feelings of pity and reprobation united us. Nothing in the world is worse than war.
May 7.
Towards I or 2 o'clock — I don't know the time exactly — some of the other doctors and I lay full length in the dust, side by side with the sick and wounded. We were covered only by a very light khaki tent cloth, which afforded but scanty protection, and did not even keep out the cold.
And it was cold, not to say very cold — perhaps 8° to 10°. Dim candles were our only means of light ; and many of them flickered in the open air. Soon our rest was interrupted by a long line of stretcher-bearers and the moans of more wounded. Here came a lieutenant, there a captain. Many of our men are wounded in the left hand.
The moral is not so good. Those who were hit did not hide their despondency, and the word retreat was often mentioned. The men were frightfully tired. We were at the mercy of any surprise attack. Captain 1'Hopital was killed, Mangin wounded, also Bouriner and numbers of second lieutenants, both white and coloured. The terrible wholesale slaughter continues. The sea was so near, and there was something terrible in the pitch dark night. On all sides calls, sudden commands, groans !
About 2.30 there was an attack. There was nobody to help remove our wounded. I left the dressing station for a minute to procure stretcher-bearers. In case of a retire- ment our wounded would have fallen into the hands of the Turks. Moreover, dressings were getting scarce, and I had to get more.
SEDD-EL-BAHR 85
At length we started out into the night, dead with fatigue. We passed bodies of men lying wrapped in the heavy sleep of exhaustion, entirely careless of death, which was on the watch for them. If a shell were to come, it would work but little apparent change among so many men asleep : how distinguish the quick from the dead ?
A great English howitzer showed up clearly against the moon, which at about 2.30 appeared above the horizon.
Our " 75 " started again. How slow daylight was in coming !
I had a dear letter from you of April 15. Bless you !
At 10 o'clock there was a general attack. I was to have lunched with Colonel Nogues, but he was much too far away, and I could not go and find him, so I lunched alone : bully beef, coffee and cheese.
On my return, under a fire of bullets and shrapnel, we proceeded to bury Captain 1'Hopital. Corporal Bocquin, who is a priest, said the prayers.
Arms were presented. The men were drawn up in no particular order, but their respect was sincere. It was a touching scene !
The fight never ceased. We French formed the pivot, whilst the English were to take Krithia.
Dined at the headquarters of Colonel Nogues.
I have a wretched cold, with a touch of laryngitis ;. and am hoarse, shivery, and thoroughly out of sorts.
Bullets pass whistling by into the ravine near the spring (such a pretty one !) and near the ruined huts and dwelling- houses. Just now a shell grazed against the stones on the top of the ridge, and sent splinters flying in all directions. One splinter landed in the saucepan in which I had just been boiling my syringe !
I went to bed royally in a dug-out in camp. I found it very snug, as I rolled myself in two blankets, and pulled
86 UNCENSORED LETTERS
my cap over my ears. Gradually I got warm and fell asleep. In the night there was a lively fusillade. It seemed to come from the right of us. Could we have been outflanked ? Later the guns gave their usual morning salute. To-day the division Bailloud begins to land on the peninsula and reinforce us.
May 8.
I went to breakfast with Colonel Nogues in his ruined billet. The ravine is quite charming and full of troops, poppies and ox-eye daisies. Also there is a spring ; likewise the kitchens !
During breakfast General d'Amade came in. I took his photo. He talked for a long time with Colonel Nogues. Some wine from Samos cheered our hearts ! The Colonel had just received his wife's photo. He has been made a full colonel.
After breakfast I went to the dressing station, where the wounded were arriving at intervals.
Ever brilliant sunshine, ever the same eternal dust !
At about 5.30 a general attack took place against the Turkish positions on Krithia and against the whole line. It was supported by artillery. It was a formidable con- certed action, the most intense there has been since April 25. Battleships and guns of great and little calibre were all firing at once. It was terrifying, astounding and overwhelming.
At 6. 20 the cannonade was still going on.
No dinner to-day. My orderly came back, but could find no one to give me any.
Suddenly from the ridges which rise perpendicularly above us, facing the cliff, some soldiers — little patches of red — came scrambling excitedly down, some of them
SEDD-EL-BAHR 87
wounded. They were retreating! The gendarmes and Raulloin rushed towards them, threatening them with their revolvers. I heard one go off, but did not turn round.
At about 8 I was at the dressing station under the cliff. Numberless wounded were arriving, and blood, groans, and confusion seemed everywhere. It was next to im- possible to see. I am afraid candles are getting scarce. Bullets were whistling and shells bursting quite close to us.
We laid the poor fellows in rows, just as you see bodies in the Morgue. Here lay a Zouave, shot through the breast ; and his groans were piteous to hear. There some poor blacks were actually laughing with the intensity of their sufferings ! A medley it seemed of surgical dressings, bandages soaked in blood, clothes torn to ribbons ! Would the ambulances never come ? Ever more wounded were arriving ! ! Your exhausted JOE.
May 9. DEAREST WIFE,
This morning the firing began again louder than ever. Our artillery, less active and decisive during the night, was answered by a hurricane of shot. Instead of being induced to surrender, the Turks delivered a counter- attack. Wounded men were now succeeded by wounded officers.
Captain Ripert was one of them — the last of his batta- lion, the 2nd. He had a bullet in his chest. Nevertheless he was full of confidence. He is a fine fellow, and he knows how to inspire with fresh confidence those who have lost heart.
All night (a cold one) the struggle went on. Attacks
88 UNCENSORED LETTERS
and counter-attacks, and always our " 75'$ " overtopped all others in the intensity of their fury. We captured six Maxims, and gained the crest of the hill. Our safety is now assured.
My horse was wounded before my eyes by a bullet on the left side of his face.
At 5 we were up. I managed to get carts in which to move the wounded. Sixteen poor fellows tramped away over the fields ; four more went in a carriage.
Then I went to inspect the battlefield. Wounded everywhere ! The killed lay in confused heaps which increased as you advanced. Some of their attitudes were extraordinary. Some were in postures of attack, others of defence. A little soldier of the 6th had his hands behind him. He had been shot from behind, and his skull was blown to bits.
The bodies had swollen, and their uniforms were tight and narrow ! It was awful ! It might have been a drunken orgy — a sinister one ! Shell cases were scattered everywhere, masses of shining copper.
At 10 o'clock I went up again on to the plateau, where shells and " marmites " were still flying around.
I came back for lunch, but no one had thought of my food ! The Colonel is away ; so is Bayec. At last they brought me a doubtful-looking mess, which I threw away. When I returned to the camp Corporal Riffat got me something to eat. I had a craving for some wine, but there was nothing but water, which was salty and flavoured with permanganate !
After a siesta, a wash and a shave, things began to look a little less black. I went down to the beach. There I found the chief officer of the Service de Sante. I told him of the men's utter exhaustion. I also saw the commissariat officer. Then I went off to look for drugs, etc., and Riffat
SEDD-EL-BAHR 89
and I returned to camp. Dinner was again most frugal ; but I got a quart of wine, and that made up for a lot !
I saw M. Julien, who is so good-natured. I gave him my films for Alexandria.
Perhaps I may get some sleep, as things are certainly somewhat quieter. On my left, somewhere in the neigh- bourhood of the English camp, I can hear the soldiers singing your favourite English hymns.
Your letter of April 9 to hand. I am glad to find that my correspondence arrives better than I expected. As to the photos, I am having them developed at Alexandria. I will send you the films as soon as they are returned to me. When I have the prints I will despatch them to you with particulars. I am going to try to affix parti- culars to each film beforehand, but it is very difficult. My health is excellent. Please write often — it is such a solace to me. Your devoted JOE.
May 10. DEAREST,
I was asleep in my dug-out when the " 75 " began its usual " fanfare," and it lasted without the slightest inter- ruption until 8 o'clock. My sleep became a sort of night- mare.
Through the " leitmotif " of the " 75*8 " I could dis- tinguish the more or less violent firing of the guns from the battleships ; then voices. How wonderful the pene- tration of the human voice !
I went to my dressing station under the cliff, and there I met all the doctors and Nibaudeau, whom I had not seen for several days. He told us of his experiences in the awful struggle and of his narrow escapes. All about
90 UNCENSORED LETTERS
him fell. Certainly his is a lucky star ! I receive 250 frcs., an indemnity for provisions.
At last our regiment, which is completely exhausted, is to be given a rest for two or three days ! It has perished almost entirely.
One single officer of the regiment is left. That is Nibaudeau, who is in command, and he is not yet a major. Two battalions are commanded by adjutants. Captain Tell is missing. He had gone on a reconnoitring expedi- tion with a patrol of four men. He must have been taken prisoner by the Turks.
Commandant Simonin did not fall into their hands. He had been wounded and had been taken on a ship. Away from the scene of action the officers, when questioned, are most optimistic. You hear from one, " Oh ! but there are not such great losses as all that ! " from another, " Oh ! it's because the officers expose themselves too recklessly ! " Many fine young sub- lieutenants will no doubt now realise for themselves what things are really like.
The medical staff has been overworked, but we have not lost a single doctor. Many orderlies and stretcher- bearers have been killed or wounded.
Nibaudeau has seen d'Amade. He told him that he could not count on the 6th Regiment, which was done for. It has been rumoured for three days that d'Amade will be recalled and replaced by Gouraud.
The military situation improves a little every day, but at the price of enormous sacrifices. The Turkish resist- ance is evidently different from what one thought it would be. All the extremity of the Gallipoli Peninsula, and doubtless the whole peninsula, has been transformed into a fortress. There is not an inch of country which has not been dug into trenches. Certain lines are formidable.
SEDD-EL-BAHR 91
It was absolutely necessary, all the same, to land troops and gain ground on which to establish infantry, artil- lery, ammunition, provisions. A foothold was conquered, occupied, fortified, defended, and is now almost impreg- nable. All had to be rapidly executed. We took trenches in bayonet charges. On certain nights the charge of the French was as irresistible as in the best days of the Napoleonic epoch. You can imagine the cost !
How heroic one must be to rush forward thus — in the night, under a cannonade of which nothing in the world can give you an idea ! And we, at the dressing station, saw the results. What a mass of wounded, what horrors ! One after another our friends were brought to us.
We have now enough room not to be too anxious. We shall not be thrown into the sea, as they hoped. We shall hold our positions. . . .
The English advance also ; more slowly than had been foreseen, I think. They have the western side (the left) of the peninsula, we the east (the right). The first ridge — very serious (300 metres) we have taken. In front there is still another ridge, higher and harder to take — Achi Baba (594 metres).
The shells pour from it. At 8 this morning a dozen large " marmites " passed over us and exploded from 100 to 200 yards behind. It is said that the Goeben ventured out towards Chanak and fired on Sedd-el-Bahr.
At In Tepe there is a formidable battery on an armoured train — housed in a tunnel commanded by the German Admiral, Sonchon. It is very irritating. On the 25th, 26th and 2jth the fleet threw 900 shells on In Tepe. Result nil, except that the disembarkation was not worried too much, In Tepe being obliged to conceal itself.
Since then there have been continual interchanges with In Tepe. Yesterday evening, as a result of more exact
92 UNCENSORED LETTERS
range-finding by French and English aeroplanes, the heavy French land artillery demolished In Tepe. It is a great success. It is said that the armoured train exploded, and with it all the supplies and munitions.
My health is excellent, my spirits perfect. I coughed a lot in the night. All the same I feel all right. I don't know what they will do with me. I am head doctor of an annihilated regiment. Doubtless I shall follow the fortunes of my regiment. For several days it has been in the rear. It is possible that we shall be put in reserve elsewhere — Tenedos, Lemnos . . .
Two days ago my fine grey horse was wounded by a bullet in the left cheek. It is not serious.
Thanks to my continual efforts, we have never lacked bandages and medicines ; but it has been a great struggle.
I have sent you a Turkish sash clasp. There are quan- ties of them. That which I send you is very valuable. Colonel Nogues picked it up specially for you the most awful day — the 2nd of May.
I will try to give you explanations of my photographs. It is wonderful that I can think of taking them ! I put a date on each film.
I slept several nights on the bare ground. Our nights are sometimes very cold, so yesterday I slept on my camp-bed with a great-coat over me (I was naturally fully dressed), my waterproof, my two rugs, my head wrapped up in a scarf — the white Japanese one — and my kepi.
We lack nothing. Corned beef abounds, also bread. There are potatoes, cold meat — mutton and beef — choco- late, rum. . . . When I go among the English and talk to them, they invite me to share with them. They are better provided than we, although they have less bread and less rum. They exchange things with our troopers.
SEDD-EL-BAHR 93
Naturally there are no inhabitants here, and not a house standing. Nature is marvellous. It is as beautiful as Provence, and it is Spring ! ! !
Buy a good map of the Dardanelles. You can follow our operations. Doubtless the English illustrated papers give admirable contour maps. Please keep the best, and make a collection. Don't send good illustrated papers. They don't get here, and then we can seldom read. One's brain is numbed.
An English aeroplane hovers above my head, and Achi Baba has been throwing shrapnel at it for some moments. It bursts round it in very white clouds. A few lumps of lead fall near us.
You don't know how active our " 75*8 " have been. Some batteries haven't ceased firing night and day for twenty to thirty hours. Some of these were only a few yards off.
The noise of the " 75*8 " is fierce, cracking, sharp, shrill and peculiarly ear-splitting.
Two days ago (it was relatively very calm) I went to the very front to dine with Colonel Nogu£s. There were Captain Vennersch, who is a friend of Charles, and Captain Malafosse. During dinner a dozen "77" shells were sent against the ruined house in which we were. A shell made some stones fall from the broken wall sheltering us.
To-day we introduced ourselves to the Divisional- Surgeon Piquet, of Bailloud's division. We breakfasted in the old camp under the tree, and after a siesta visited the new encampment, which is in front of the cemetery of cypresses.
About 3 p.m. shells and " marmites " were thick around us. The English Captain Keene comes to visit us. He tells us that the English are 1,800 yards from Krithia, and that they have made 300 Turkish prisoners.
94 UNCENSORED LETTERS
I had a chance meeting with Silly, commandant of the engineers. He is in Bailloud's division, and will perhaps be C.O. of the engineers of the Oriental Expeditionary Force when Gouraud comes.
I wrote some postcards to my family. I cannot write letters to anyone but you.
What dangers avoided already ! My dear little wife, don't fear for your Joe. He is brave, and does his duty with a good heart, but doesn't expose himself uselessly. Besides it is best to be a fatalist.
I have a firm conviction that I shall return — wounded or not. My love for you sustains me, and gives me every sort of courage. I love you more and more, and I wish to live so as to love you till my last breath.
Tell each member of your family how much I think of them, and how affectionately I am attached to them.
Au revoir, my beloved wife. Your TOE
May 12. MY BELOVED WIFE,
About 5 o'clock this morning, after breakfast at the dressing station, I went with Dr. Lossouarn to see Colonel Nogues. Lean and ascetic-looking, there he stood smiling and bright, with his newly acquired Cross of the Legion of Honour pinned on his breast. He had been awarded it this very morning in the pouring rain out in the ravine. Shells were raining too ! Vermersch got the Cross, too, and Malafosse a stripe.
The Colonel's tent backs on the ruins of a house. In front there is a little path made of rubble, and on this there are five or six shell cases, out of which numbers of bright flowers are growing. It has been labelled by some wag " Villa Marie-Louise." I took a photo of it all.
SEDD-EL-BAHR 95
Colonel Nogues has been wounded a second time, and again in the left arm. He is tired, but his intellect is as keen as ever, and his ideas are always so sound and original.
I came back to our primitive camp at night, and succeeded in sleeping until a tremendous cannonade waked me. It was only 10 o'clock. It was so terrifying and increased so much in violence that I got up and tried to see what was happening. Could one of our sections have been driven in ?
The artillery was firing madly and furiously, without a moment's respite. Two hours later a little calm super- vened. But at three in the morning there were fresh and violent explosions, which, although not of quite such intensity, were, nevertheless, sufficiently nerve-racking.
We are told that there were no sorties on the part of the Turks. Nothing at all extraordinary happened. Merely an enormous expenditure of ammunition on both sides.
I slept once more.
May 13.
A very quiet night — certainly the quietest since April 25. Only the " 75 " was to be heard in the plain, and even this calmed down about 10.35, ano^ we slept. . . .
Four o'clock ! Where in the world am I ? In Alex- andria ? Still at sea ? . . . Pulling myself together, I set to work to get the ambulance canteens into order, and have things made clean and ship-shape. The dressing station really begins to look smart !
To check any illusion that an awakening without the aid of gunfire might occasion, a poor mangled body was brought in on a stretcher. The brain protruded, and the head was bathed in blood ; there was also a great gash in the side.
96 UNCENSORED LETTERS
It was Bacon, the adjutant, who was only promoted a few days ago. He began the campaign as corporal, and had come from China. He has been buried by the side of Huguenin.
As I was just writing this some shells from a " 75 " made their appearance. One fell only about twenty-five yards from me, right among the horses. Nothing happened, however, for it buried itself in the earth and did not explode. This was followed by shrapnel and other shells. At II o'clock it was still going on, and it was not till 2 that they began to tire of it. A siesta in tropical heat !
Some huge " marmites " have been exploding quite close to our battle cruisers : first a bang, then a whistling sound, then a long pause followed by a formidable rain of shells in the water. Our " Rimaillot " was replying. This sort of thing has been going on over our heads while we took our dip in the sea.
I have just received The Times you sent. It gives but a scanty notice of our epic landing at Koum Kaleh.
Yesterday at 8 a patient came in with a bullet in his arm and chest. He was a European " agent de liaison."
We now hear that the Goliath was sunk by a German destroyer, mistaken for an English one. Good-night, dearest. JOE.
May 14. MY DEAREST WIFE,
I read last night in my " earth-hole " your letter coming
from Alexandria. Mrs. de R sent it on to me with a
most friendly letter from herself.
For the first time on Turkish soil I have set up my tent, which is still lined inside with its delicate yellow cloth, and fragrant with the memory of my feminine visitors of
A CANVAS-COVERED TRK.NCH AT .<-EDD-KL- HAHR.
A CORNER OK THE BATTLEFIELD AKTKK THK LANDING AT SEDD-EL-BAHR. IAKEN MAY 3, 1915.
SEDD-EL-BAHR 97
Ramleh. It is at the foot of the cliff of Hill 200, at a height of 10 metres ; and it dominates the plain towards Morto Bay and the Asiatic coast beyond, with Koum Kaleh and In Tepe. Till now I have been underground.
This territory, conquered inch by inch, has been dearly paid for. It is dotted with graves. From where I am writing I can see that of Blanchard. It is owing to these brave men that we are here, and that the Turks are beginning to feel our power.
Shells are passing over our heads. They come from Achi Baba (591 feet). Those from In Tepe, which is opposite us, are no longer to be feared ; at any rate, for the last three days they have been silent. The fleet say it is their shells which destroyed the battery. It is more probably our Rimaillot guns, of Sedd-el-Bahr, which really silenced it. It is impossible to express what we owe to this wonderful gun. The landing was becoming very difficult. Each day twenty or thirty shells came from In Tepe, which caused no end of trouble and killed people constantly.
On the blue sea in front of me, where till yesterday there were hundreds of boats, I can now only see one. We hear that they are letting mines drift down. It is said, too, that the English armoured cruiser Goliath was sunk last night by a Turkish mine right in front of us, in Morto Bay. All must have been over in a few minutes. Borella heard the cries of the drowning sailors.
A moving ceremony took place yesterday morning at 8 o'clock. Our regiment had passed the night in reserve. For once our brave fellows had slept. The morning of the 1 2th was damp and dark. It was drizzling with rain. The men were preparing their coffee and having a wash.
98 UNCENSORED LETTERS
Suddenly a messenger galloped up, stopping in front of Major Nibaudeau, and gave him a slip of paper. The bugle called us together, and we arrived in field equipment. From the muddy trench came a new brilliantly coloured standard, proudly carried by a dirty little man without stripes or decorations. This man showed magnificent heroism at Koum Kaleh, and in this very place too, leading the charge under a hail of bullets.
Other soldiers, worn out, badly dressed, covered with mud, escorted the flag. They have been chosen among all the regiment to be decorated with the military medal. Among them is a Senegalese sergeant.
General d'Amade arrived on foot. It was raining, and we were very cold. A feeling of utmost depression weighed on us as the bugle sounded again and we got into line. Where is the regiment ? Out of 3,800 men there remain only 1,200. The General gave only one Cross — to the chief. All deserve it.
Clouds came up. It rained. On the Asiatic coast floated huge white snow flakes. We are benumbed.
" This evening the regiment will be placed in the fore- front of the first line," says the General. Well, it is ready.
I like Nibaudeau very much. He is wonderfully brave, and exercises a great influence over all. In spite of the rain we had a little lunch in his honour, at which a captain of the English staff was present. We had York ham, champagne, etc.
Nibaudeau and I proposed a toast to all the newly promoted officers. I think I told you that several soldiers were made officers during the battle, as there was not a single original officer left.
Just at this moment an English aeroplane is passing over our heads. It is greeted with shrapnel, but it is
SEDD-EL-BAHR 99
continuing on its way, and the General will hear some interesting details of enemy dispositions.
Yesterday, about 6 o'clock, an aeroplane was followed for nearly an hour by exploding shrapnel, which made a long white trail behind it. The noise was appalling. Rifles also were directed on the machine. When his report was given in, the Turkish batteries, discovered by the pilot, passed a mauvais quart d"hfure.
Another incident. A servant to one of my young doctors in the first battalion was kept by his duties in the second line. This little man, who was of very peaceful appearance, and was a peasant of Central France, wanted very badly " to go and kill some Turks." He explained to the Major that his father took part in the Italian campaign, and that he wanted to emulate him.
" When I return to my village I want to be able to talk." " But it is particularly dangerous over there. You have plenty of time," said the doctor to him. " Have patience." "I beg you to let me go and see a little." So the little peasant went to see. He distributed cartridges to his comrades in the first line of trenches. A bullet killed him outright.
This evening's communique" (which I have just been reading by candle light) reports that General d'Amade, who is ill, has been invalided home, and that General Gouraud is taking his place. )f{j io\
Out of three generals one has had the mouth and jaw shattered.
In an English division, out of three generals two have been wounded and the third killed. The English losses are very heavy. 3nT
Your country and mine mourn together for brave men, little wife of mine. ,n3rn >u fnT^u.
T ! 893C3
• a
ioo UNCENSORED LETTERS
May 15. DEAR WIFE,
As I write these words shells are falling again on the plain and in the sea. . . . Peace is not of this world.
I send you a map of the Gallipoli Peninsula. We have quantities of maps, but only one is good, and that one I am obliged to keep. You can judge, however, by the one you will receive of the small importance of the portion of the Gallipoli Peninsula conquered by us. However, you must not think that the resistance will always be as strong. A detachment of Australians has got a footing at Gaba Tepe, north and to the west of Achi Baba, and is main- taining itself there. It hopes to join hands with us in a few days.
My wounded horse " Dix Avril " is better. He begins to eat again without too much difficulty. I have ex- changed my second horse for a half-bred, brown, with an excellent temper. He is called " Merle." He belonged to Chabbert, who has been killed. We cannot use our horses much, space being so limited ; but all the same I have ridden once or twice. Thousands of shells have threatened our horses, and now they no longer take heed of them.
At the landing place the Australians left 600 corpses. After a formidable cannonade, without an equal in history, the Turks waited for the British. Sheltered in deep entrenchments, they had numbers of machine guns, which decimated our allies.
It is a tour de force to have effected such a landing, without a parallel of its kind !
The weather is hot. I had a heavy siesta in the tent. The colours one sees to-day are admirable. The plain is a swarm of men, horses, guns, munitions, and provision cases ! The sea is of the bluest blue, and black ships are
SEDD-EL-BAHR 101
lying on it — battleships. A huge fountain of water rises now and then. It is a " marmite " which has fallen into the sea. Friendly aeroplanes fly over us unceasingly.
I have done several pencil sketches to please you. We have leisure, because trench warfare has commenced. And so you have this rambling letter from
Your devoted JOB.
May 1 6. DEAREST,
Things are really approaching the ideal ! Last night we slept untroubled by the fusillade, which, for the matter of that, has subsided slightly to-day.
General Gouraud passed through our camp about 7.30 this morning. He found us quiet save for a few shells and " marmites " in the plain. The General was up at 4 this morning. He inspected the troops unaccompanied.
I am going to call on Colonel Nogues. He is in the first line with General Gouraud. General d'Amade is going home. We are sorry; both officers and men had great confidence in him. ^
I had a visit in my tent from M. M., the commissariat officer who has come to the Sedd-el-Bahr beach. Seven- teen horses were killed this morning by one shell.
I had a bathe in the sea this afternoon.
Commandant Nibaudeau has come to the base for three days after three days in the trenches. We dined together at 7 o'clock in camp No. 2 (in front of the Cemetery of Cypresses). I came back at 9.
About 9 much shrapnel. An artillery attack on the part of the Turks. A fearful din.
I saw a regiment pass on its way to reinforce our men. As things got calmer we allowed ourselves a little sleep.
102 UNCENSORED LETTERS
During dinner at camp No. 2, three aeroplanes were hovering about ; while in the Dardanelles, directly facing us, we saw enacted a drama which we could not altogether understand.
An English battle-cruiser was being attacked by a per- fect tornado of shells, which came, apparently, from the Dardanelles forts. The cruiser steamed ahead rapidly, thundering furiously with her guns again and again. Then she turned a little, fired a broadside and went off. Enor- mous sprays of water encircled her as she went.
May 17.
I received to-day your letters of 23rd and 24th April.
My health is perfect, but the climate is rather warm. We want for nothing, and all goes well. I will send two or three more letters to Paris — then I will despatch them to London.
An intense shelling of Commandant Nibaudeau's camp by the Turks. At 9 o'clock we also had a taste, a shell whistling above our heads and burying itself in the ground a few yards further on. A few men were wounded.
All day important sapping and mining work going on. The Turks made up their minds we were going to attack. They have been firing all day. In consequence there is a large number of wounded scattered about everywhere in ones or twos.
Bathed at 5 o'clock amid a hail of " marmites " and shells.
6.40 went to dinner with Colonel Nogues at " Villa Marie-Louise " ; Colonel Grillot, Dr. Duchene Marulas, and Malafosse there, but not Captain Vermersch, who has taken command of a battalion.
Menu. — White wine, fish, chicken, green peas, oranges,
SEDD-EL-BAHR 103
apricots, jam and biscuits. These delicacies were sent by M. Mauras from the Lorraine. She only arrived this morning, and takes her departure to-night.
In the night an uninterrupted fusillade, supported at times (2.30 and 4) by big guns.
May 1 8.
My grey horse died this morning between i and 2 a.m. He was wounded in the head on the 8th, but seemed practically well again. He is the victim, no doubt, of a spent bullet. Yesterday was a day of spent bullets !
An intense bombardment on the " Pylones " road.
I had another bath in the sea.
I dined with Colonel Nogues and Drs. Lapus and Malafosse.
Losses of the metropolitan brigade : —
I75th Regiment .. 2185 .. 55 officers. R.M.A 2516 .. 47 „
4701 102
Colonel Niegert came in during dinner — a fine energetic figure !
The attack this evening at 10 o'clock was meant, accord- ing to settled plan, to gain 80 yards to straighten the line. So well were the dispositions made, that it was effected without any loss.
Good-night, Beloved. Your JOE.
May 19. MY OWN WIFE,
I breakfasted alone this morning in my tent. Sent for some grub to Nibaudeau.
There is a report that a submarine was sunk about 4 o'clock this afternoon by English vessels in Morto Bay.
104 UNCENSORED LETTERS
I had dinner with Colonel Nogues at his new head- quarters of the Colonial Brigade. I hear that Captain Bouchet, of Kien An, was killed here on May 9.
The dressing station has been moved. It is now at the extreme south-east of the cliff, to the left of Colonel Nogues' old headquarters. The ground is stony, steep and hilly, and quite well wooded. The Colonel has got his tent under a fig tree. I placed mine just beyond, almost touching the cliff, getting it, with a little manipulation, on to a platform bordered by stones. Drastic disinfection was needed.
It is fearfully hard work moving all our goods and chattels !
We continue to lead a less stirring life, although on the somewhat narrow space we occupy (6 to 7 kilometres long) the " marmites " rain with pretty lively insistence. We are nevertheless all in the best of spirits, and reckon on beating the Turks in a decisive fashion. Health perfect.
Perhaps you will be interested in some personal remarks and intimate notes about your own hubby.
Do you want to know how I am dressed ? Nearly always in the same way. Blue-grey kepi like a " soldat de deuxieme classe," dark blue tunic with plenty of pockets, which I bought in Paris, trousers of soldier's cloth accruing from the 2ist at Paris, black gaiters (the old ones I had in Tonking), and soldier's boots. I am very comfortable in all this. It is a little hot in the day-time, but in the evening and night it is all needed. My boots are so much like slippers that there is no need to take them off to sleep. Underneath, as linen, I have a thin cotton vest and a shirt, drawers of fine cotton and wool socks.
I change my linen every day. Korka is quite used to it. He immediately washes everything, generally in his
SEDD-EL-BAHR 105
" gamelle " (porringer), and an hour afterwards the things are dry and ready to be worn again. I change my collar every day, but it is not ironed.
I have only missed a bath in my indiarubber tub four or five times. Whenever things were quiet I seized the opportunity. Pears' soap ! An extravagance of Alex- andria ! I was three or four days without shaving.
Since the ijth our life has been quite regular. Breakfast of coffee, piece of chocolate, and mouldy bread ; then a little walk round with a shovel under my arm — a good weapon when shells or bullets are flying round. On my return I shave when I have time. At 4 I go down to the sea. Korka carries a towel, a rug stolen from the Turks for use as a carpet, and always his porringer to pour water on feet dirtied with sand. The bath is exquisite.
This evening a huge " marmite " fell 10 yards away from us, and above our heads the English reply of shells covers us with a vault of steel, dissolving, hissing and noisy. To finish off the picture, Allied aeroplanes soar deliciously into the blue sky. Very white shrapnel follows them and marks their path — fortunately afar off. The fuses make holes in the sand, or fizzle in the blue water.
I go to bed fully dressed, though occasionally, to save my tunic, I hang it over the back of a chair (I have a chair !), and sleep in my overcoat. Round my neck I have the white Japanese scarf, which always conjures up a little of Japan. I roll my legs in the brown military rug which you saw at Toulon, and over all I spread the fine green one.
I often awake in the night, and there is always something to do. Sometimes I wear a kepi when it is cold, unless I wrap up my head in the Japanese stuff.
I take my meals sometimes with the doctors of my regiment, sometimes with the Commandant Nibaudeau,
106 UNCENSORED LETTERS
and most often with Colonel Nogues. When he was in the front lines I risked bullets and shells for the pleasure of his company. He is a charming man, of lively intelligence and a kind heart.
May 22.
To-day we attacked vigorously at 10 o'clock, aided by a formidable artillery fire. The result should be excellent, but has not yet prevented us from being flooded by shells and " marmites."
I have received — I know not from whom (perhaps through your kindness) — a whole heap of journals and illustrated papers : Illustration, Daily Mail, Vie Parisienne, Cri de Paris, etc. Is it you ? At last one begins to be able to read. I have passed days and days without the least wish to look at anything but the picture which we are giving ourselves — and it's no ordinary one.
Love, love, love. TOE
May 24. MY DEAREST WIFE,
As usual, a great deal of noise — bullets, shrapnel, etc. " Marmites " are still falling, but we lead a less agitated life. Yesterday evening an English captain, a very nice man, came to see us. He told us that the British troops are advancing successfully, if rather slowly. We hear Italy will fight with us — perhaps even here.
Extremely good health. We are changing our camp for six days or longer. We shall be in trenches. Last night I slept in my tent, but this morning some bullets went through it. Everybody is in good spirits, and feels certain of beating the Turks in decisive fashion.
SEDD-EL-BAHR 107
May 26.
To-day, during my luncheon with Colonel Nogues in the trenches, I received your letter from Paris of the igth and 3oth of April. And at the beginning you speak about the loss of your letters and mine.
It is certain that your letters did not reach me for a long while. Fortunately we were at Alexandria, but I did not know if you were ill or not. It is all forgotten now. Many letters have been delayed and many others destroyed.
They did not wish it known in France where we were and what we were going to do. Besides, it is sufficient to turn to our itinerary to understand the enormous hesitation of the Governments. We expected to operate with Greece, and Greece held off just when we arrived at Lemnos.
Everyone complained of the postal service. There was in both directions, and for some time, interruption and destruction of correspondence. You must have read my letter written just before Koum Kaleh saying that at last I had a letter from you.
To-day I have received a long letter from Paris, 29th and 3Oth April. I am not sure of the 29th, for you have not dated the first pages, but it is the 28th or 29th for certain. I think when reading it one or two tears fell. Emotion is forbidden in the trenches, but it is sweet to be loved.
When I arrived this morning at the Colonel's post a black orderly had just got a bullet in his shoulder. There are so many corpses about that the smell is insupportable. You see how sweet a thing at this time is the letter from a dear little wife. Now in my hole I am dazed by a battery of " 75*3 " which is firing above me. At each shot enough sand and earth falls to dry the page.
The noise of the " 75 " has about it something irritating, unnerving, upsetting. It tears the ear, is strident and
io8 UNCENSORED LETTERS
brutal. No other cannonade can be confounded with that. When the gun goes off you feel a wild rage, a formidable destruction, a summons to death which freezes you with terror.
My beautiful horse, which you admired in the photos, is dead. I have regretted him very much. I have now a superb chestnut which is called " Merle." Since then I have a second horse, that of poor Captain Blanchard. It is a grey beast, which somewhat recalls my mourned " Dextrier."
Instead of careering along on horseback, you insinuate yourself prudently in the defiles of the trenches without raising your head too much. The bullets which lodge in the banks make a sound like a chestnut popping in the cinders, and those which go further imitate the noise of a bee.
You will receive some more money, darling, and I hope that you will spend some of it. I myself only spend perhaps £2 or £3 a month. I wish particularly that you shall have everything that will please you. Go to the best tea shops, and don't forget to go to the theatre, though I expect that the war takes away all desire to amuse yourself. But I am very anxious that you shall not get into a groove of misery. This summer you must go to the mountains — perhaps Scotland would do you good.
I am very proud of the character which your father gives me. I also am very fond of your father, and often reflect, full of admiration, on the life which he has so well spent. It is an admirable example for all the world, and especially for me.
There are real beauties in a dug-out. The platform is made of big branches of pine, to which leaves and cones are still attached. The fresh atmosphere is perfumed
SEDD-EL-BAHR 109
with resin. Tufts of poppies are so red that their corollas of blood are full of love and war.
My visitors sit on a seat covered thickly with several plaids, and under their feet, tired from the paths of combats, there is a beautiful Turkish rug as thick as a carpet. Massive copper dishes, stolen from the Turks, hang in the corners.
This evening there will be an attack, and I accompanied Colonel Nogues in his inspection of Hill 236, where we shall operate. On our way we went to see the " Old monas- tery." It was doubtless a superb building, which topped the cliff at this point, hanging perpendicularly over the sea — now only ruins, stones, with just a bit of wall which enables one to judge the importance of the buildings. We entered a small room, the only one left standing — very interesting.
Advancing along the cliff, we found two twin tombs — English : a commandant (major) and a private soldier. An English battalion took this corner of ground. They were 1,200 in number. They held on to the end, but they were reduced to 400 — a marvellous defence.
The scenery is most beautiful. The Dardanelles, then Tenedos to the south, then farther off, Samothrace, in a colouring which only Greek poets could describe.
On our right, on the Asiatic coast, the ancient Troy of the Iliad, of Helen and of Homer ; Koum Kaleh conquered by us, and bearing witness to the prowess of our armies. One can distinguish, with glasses, the houses, one by one, the castle, the bridge which our " 75'$ " barred, and the cemetery where several thousand Turks were entrenched.
The country is deserted, abandoned. No living being dares show his face there since the 25th of April. Without this radiantly beautiful light it would be frightfully sad.
We cross a plateau hollowed out with trenches where
no UNCENSORED LETTERS
there are no longer any soldiers. The poppies have sprung up again. It is a fairy scene.
We arrive at the observation post of Hill 236, and find there two brigade commanders, staff officers, an artillery commander, besides Colonel Nogues and myself. They are preparing the business of the evening. In spite of the late hour we can see and read the plain like a high relief map. It is disconcertingly clear. Also the enemy can see us, and bullets whistle round us. We can see our shells fall on the enemy works and burst, and see what damage they have done. Here are our trenches, there the Turkish ones, with their barbed wire spread wide in front of them.
Here is a redoubt which has been revealed to our " 75's," and which is strongly attacked. Ten, fifteen shells fall on it and annihilate it methodically.
But there on our left you can see, along a green meadow, the last traces of the battle of Krithia. It was a terrible thing. Fifty of ours, in grey-blue cloaks, are there, elbow to elbow as if at drill. They are looking towards the enemy, and I see they have their guns pointed in their hands.
They are all dead there together, asphyxiated by a shell or riddled by machine guns. At first glance one would swear that they are not dead, or that they are just going to get up. But on looking closer one can see opened corpses. The breeze is laden with dreadful odours.
My dear little wife, life counts for little here, and one's turn may come when it is least expected. I should not like to be disfigured or mutilated. I should prefer to be killed outright.
If I were wounded I should go either to Bizerta, Tunis, Algiers or Toulon. It seems that they don't wish to send a single case of illness to Alexandria.
Why ? It is heartrending, isn't it ? to renounce Alex-
SEDD-EL-BAHR in
andria for ever as patient or as doctor. We left so many sympathetic friends there.
For my own part, I can't bring my memory back to Alexandria without asking myself if I am dreaming. But I prefer to go to another country if I am wounded.
You will look after me, darling. That would be better than all the others put together. I bless you, and wish I could only hold your hands in mine. Your TOE.
May 27. DEAREST MINE,
My hut is all ablaze this morning with enormous sheaves of poppies. Your photo in an oak frame is in the scarlet shadow of the flowers.
Perfect health. Good spirits.
May 28.
Shells are falling very near me. One gets quite accustomed to them. The British general in command, Sir Ian Hamilton, has invited some of us to Mudros to spend forty-eight hours there.
It will be very nice. I hope I can manage to get away. Fancy not having to be on the look-out for shells or bullets — to sleep without the noise of guns ! I shall try to go. I am writing to you from my underground hole.
I am keeping the letters and the films so as to send them by the Lorraine, which is expected. Don't worry. It will be safer. Theo himself will be able to post them in France. I can no longer send my kodak films to Alex- andria. I will send them to you direct.
Your loving HUSBAND.
H2 UNCENSORED LETTERS
May 30. DEAR ONE,
I am writing this in my " dug-out " of the Fountain Vermesch Ravine.
We are going to change our camp. We are leaving our underground holes for tents, 300 metres in the rear. For six days my regiment was in the first line. Now it is resting.
Korka and Borella, my servants, have already strapped down my trunks and emptied my " dug-out." I am writing on my knees, seated on the bottom step of my home. Well, now that I have no more belongings in it, it appears big and comfortable.
I received this morning your letter of the i6th of May and your postcard of the I4th. You had just received my letter of the 28th April and those of the 2nd and 3rd May. Doubtless some letters have gone astray.
You tell me that you have become a perfect pearl — that you keep an account of all your expenses. Even I could do that now easily. This month I spent five francs in chocolate, thirty francs on our mess. That is all. I draw the equivalent of three rations in money, for we only take the rations that we need, which makes a saving of more than 100 francs a month.
May 31.
MY VERY DEAR WlFE,
You wish to come to Sedd-el-Bahr ! With Madame M. ! You have not seen my photos ?
Sedd-el-Bahr or Sedoul Bahr is the landing point where the English and French were so admirable, and lost so many men. It is ruined — done for. There are only soldiers, munitions, horses, material — no women.
A DRESSING STATION, \\ITH KORKA, THK DOCTORS SENEGALESE SERVANT.
IN THE FRENCH CAMP NEAR SEDD-EL-BAHR. COLONEL NOGUES, WOUNDED IN THE ARM DURING THE KOUM KALEH EXPEDITION.
LIFE GIVING SLEEP AFTER EXHAUSTING FIGHTING.
A PRINCELY DUG-OUT WHICH THE DOCTOR OCCUPIED FOR A WEEK.
SEDD-EL-BAHR 113
Sedd-el-Bahr has been, but is no more.
Ask the artillery of the Allied Fleets why ; ask, too, the landing troops — French, English, New Zealanders, Australians, Egyptians, Senegalese! . . . The Chateau d'Europe, with its light, sun-washed walls, has holes in its foundations large enough to lodge families in ; and shells still fall thickly there every day, nearly every hour.
The town, not very big, once dainty, situated on apricot and almond tree-covered terraces, shaded with flourishing orchards crowned with vines, is now only a ruin, a memory.
In a little by-path I saw a fountain under the fig trees. The water runs no more, but the clay pipe is intact, as also the ornamental tap. On the wall behind, Arab characters are cut into the stone, telling the thirsty passer-by, no doubt, to say a prayer to Allah for the benefactor who built it.
Whole houses have fallen down. A shapeless mass of dust, brick and stones is all that remains of them. Others, cut open, allow one to guess the character and home life of the inhabitants. They, like their Mussulman owners, must suffer to have their privacy thus brutally exposed. In one dusty corner I see a coloured coverlet on a bed, and, nailed to the wall, a bird-cage.
The narrow streets of the town are filled with soldiers of every service, crowded with carts, munition cases, ambulance carriages, horses, artillery waggons. One must squeeze up against the wall under the toppling roofs not to be crushed by them. Heaps of soldiers have occupied the ruins and are camping there.
In the higher part of the town big trees may be seen, green spaces, even flowers and the rich front of a monastery or church. The monastery has been destroyed ; the outer wall is all that is left standing.
In the middle of the town, dominating the sea, lies a
ii4 UNCENSORED LETTERS
cemetery. Turkish cemeteries in the East are full of poetry and charm. The grave stones rise from the midst of irises, roses, poppies, mignonette, marguerites. Many are of marble, inscribed with lines from the Koran. Some tablets are gently curved off at the top in the shape of a leaf or a round ball. Others are cylindrical in form. Their sculptural whiteness is shown off vividly by the green foliage behind them, and by the triumphant purple of the irises.
If you continue to climb the cemetery path you come to the first terrace from which you overlook the town, the beach, the sea, and even the Asiatic coast with Koum Kaleh and Yenisher. It is a unique panorama. From the ground, dug into holes by shells, from the barbed wire entanglements, from the hiding places where our batteries have been established, it is possible to estimate in a single glance the prodigious effort of England and France on the Gallipoli Peninsula. The glorious history of April 25 shines out clearly.
The semi-circular hills, which rise like a huge amphi- theatre, dominate it from all sides. The converging fire of machine-guns, field-guns, and rifles made a landing here impossible to any other nation but your own indomitable English.
From the River Clyde (a big cargo boat which has been intentionally stranded on the Sedd-el-Bahr beach) the marvellous soldiers of England dashed forward. They threw themselves into the water ; but even in the sea the Turks had laid their barbed wire defences. Many tried to force their way through ; but they were drowned or cut up.
Their bodies were suspended for a long time on these wires ; and this inextricable human entanglement, which appeared from time to time above the water, was a sight
SEDD-EL-BAHR 115
to terrify the bravest. It became necessary to call in the aid of a gun. A few explosive shells and bodies and wire were dragged away by the current.
On the first platform ridge — it is called " The Beach," and the name will stick to it — is an extraordinary mass of arms, horses, cases, carriages and guns. Into all that, shells from In Tepe fall regularly, only killing a few horses. There are also a field hospital there, stores under canvas, and every sort of quickly improvised establishment.
Two 155-mm. guns are hidden a little higher up, and fire periodically on Achi Baba and In Tepe.
Now the beach of Sedd-el-Bahr is almost exclusively reserved to the French. The British have occupied the beach to the west of Cape Helles. Numerous transports, battleships — a powerful and varied fleet — are anchored in the blue sea.
Sedd-el-Bahr no longer exists, but the bravery of the British, the bravery of the French have made it for ever immortal. Your devoted HUSBAND.
CHAPTER VIII
SIEGE WARFARE
June I. MY DEAR ONE,
I am officially proposed with the best and bravest of my regiment — several on the list have died of their wounds, or have given their lives in new deeds — for higher rank. It is a great honour. If I am promoted, as it is said I may be, I should have to leave my regiment, which I should regret keenly. I should have liked to follow it through all the stages of this campaign.
I have read The Times. You can get the clearest idea of what we are doing, and certainly you have it. But what makes you think that a woman could land at Sedd- el-Bahr ? With little Madame M. ! Dear one, dear one ! You can imagine how well you would both be received, for there are 100,000 men here, and a whole English division is expected from Lemnos, and you would be the only women within miles !
The audacity of German submarines is a new source of trouble to us. The sea is almost bare of boats. The General-in-Chief, who was on the Arcadian, has installed himself on land at Imbros. Many yards of nets, also sub- marines and monitors with flat bottoms, have been ordered in England.
I am sending by registered post to-day or to-morrow five spools of films. All goes well. Health ideal ; perfect weather; good spirits. Some " 155 " guns are firing hard
SIEGE WARFARE 117
at us. Hell is nothing to it. Yet last night, under the usual fire, I slept from 9 to 5.30 in the morning right off ! Good-night, my well-beloved darling.
Your JOE.
'June 3. DEAREST,
A rather quiet day ; but probably it will not last long.
I have seen some very interesting official reports, all of them glorifying the 6th Colonial.
June 4.
Received your letter of the 2 1st ulto. in the midst of a raging battle. All goes well. You shall have a letter every day if possible.
I was presented to General Gouraud on the 3ist, when he came to review my regiment. The review was held in honour of Sergeant Resplendi, whom he decorated with the Military Medal.